FS: 40mm Dellorto Carbs SOLD

[REXY]

No manifold but in good condition. Were rebuilt about 2 years ago but haven't been on a car since. Will need new filters.

Collect Adelaide only.

[Daniel H]

are all the throttle linkages there? what sort of manifold would i need? linx manifold would fit to 2 litre?

thanks Daniel

[REXY]

[REXY]

New pics uploaded in first post.

[peelo]

[REXY]

[REXY]

Peter, it says DHLA40 G on both carbies.

[peelo]

[REXY]

[peelo]

REXY,

I checked up on the emmission series Dellortos and the F, G, H, L and N series are all emmission carbies. For your information, my research is as follows:

"The DHLA emmission models are completely different to the DCOE science, but no one really understands them and try always to tune them like the early models. These differ because they have more progression holes and use the idle jet to feed most of the cruise phase and low rpm/lowTP area of the engine AT ALL TIMES when the main jet isn't in operation completelyautomatically, no jetting needed. The idle jet has a very large fixed 2.2mm air feed, you cannot tune this phase of the carburetor for length like others, but here lays the secret ....

The idle jet doesn't feed from the float bowl, it feeds directly from the main jet stack, what happens after this is what gives these Dellortos the sweetest road behaviour (what 25 years of research came up with and not just for emmissions) and dead easy tuning, you see the when the main jet starts to emulsify fuel in the tube, the idle jet is feeding from it, so the gassy airy fuel shuts down the idle jet and sucks backward (yes BACKWARDS) through the idle, using every drip of fuel efficiently without ANY waste in circuit cross over where one is going after the other .... this happens the moment the main jet fires, so there is NO need at all to tune the length of the progression and idle phase. This is pure magic as they are automatically calibrated, you simply keep the idle jet above 59 up to 62 and not make the mistake of fitting numbers suited to early DHLA or DCOE. With this simple technique you can tune anything from a 1300 to a 2000cc without really doing anything. The emulsion tubes in these carbs are always 8-10-11 and have to stay that way - which are really rich and have a hole straight down with loads of air holes, these atomise the fuel to a massive degree, and they also have to be used because the idle jet will not run correctly using the DHLA40-E type tubes (1-6-7-5) as the idle jet needs these airy tubes to function and cut out as designed. Usually people ram the DHLA40 idle holders with air holes in these carbs and add the 1-6-5-7 style tubes and wonder why there is a massive lean spot off idle, because they are ignorant of the different circuitry of these carbs. These carbs use a .3 vent which has a very small signal tube to the main jet stack, this is because the holey tubes are basically ready to go from about 1250rpm, so the holey tubes need holding back with a signal killing venturi. These carbs are wicked if you want bolt on power, they tune themselves!!

The earlier non-emission types are better in respect of punch and tunability on odd applications but don't really do anything these later emission types won't do on all but the best engines. These carbs will give the maximum power available on any engine if you take time to balance them properly, but they are a bit more suited to standard motors over 1500cc, motors with mild cams or standard cams and they operate best if you are using 30 to 33 chokes. They hate race engines, mad cams and mad chokes because they are designed mainly for hot production engines with a clear pulsestrength to suit the retarded venturi and tubes - great where silk town driving is paramount and you do commuting or just Sunday driving. They also give superior economy over the earlier non-emission types."

[peelo]

REXY,

I checked up on the emmission series Dellortos and the F, G, H, L and N series are all emmission carbies. For your information, my research is as follows:

"The DHLA emmission models are completely different to the DCOE science, but no one really understands them and try always to tune them like the early models. These differ because they have more progression holes and use the idle jet to feed most of the cruise phase and low rpm/lowTP area of the engine AT ALL TIMES when the main jet isn't in operation completelyautomatically, no jetting needed. The idle jet has a very large fixed 2.2mm air feed, you cannot tune this phase of the carburetor for length like others, but here lays the secret ....

The idle jet doesn't feed from the float bowl, it feeds directly from the main jet stack, what happens after this is what gives these Dellortos the sweetest road behaviour (what 25 years of research came up with and not just for emmissions) and dead easy tuning, you see the when the main jet starts to emulsify fuel in the tube, the idle jet is feeding from it, so the gassy airy fuel shuts down the idle jet and sucks backward (yes BACKWARDS) through the idle, using every drip of fuel efficiently without ANY waste in circuit cross over where one is going after the other .... this happens the moment the main jet fires, so there is NO need at all to tune the length of the progression and idle phase. This is pure magic as they are automatically calibrated, you simply keep the idle jet above 59 up to 62 and not make the mistake of fitting numbers suited to early DHLA or DCOE. With this simple technique you can tune anything from a 1300 to a 2000cc without really doing anything. The emulsion tubes in these carbs are always 8-10-11 and have to stay that way - which are really rich and have a hole straight down with loads of air holes, these atomise the fuel to a massive degree, and they also have to be used because the idle jet will not run correctly using the DHLA40-E type tubes (1-6-7-5) as the idle jet needs these airy tubes to function and cut out as designed. Usually people ram the DHLA40 idle holders with air holes in these carbs and add the 1-6-5-7 style tubes and wonder why there is a massive lean spot off idle, because they are ignorant of the different circuitry of these carbs. These carbs use a .3 vent which has a very small signal tube to the main jet stack, this is because the holey tubes are basically ready to go from about 1250rpm, so the holey tubes need holding back with a signal killing venturi. These carbs are wicked if you want bolt on power, they tune themselves!!

The earlier non-emission types are better in respect of punch and tunability on odd applications but don't really do anything these later emission types won't do on all but the best engines. These carbs will give the maximum power available on any engine if you take time to balance them properly, but they are a bit more suited to standard motors over 1500cc, motors with mild cams or standard cams and they operate best if you are using 30 to 33 chokes. They hate race engines, mad cams and mad chokes because they are designed mainly for hot production engines with a clear pulsestrength to suit the retarded venturi and tubes - great where silk town driving is paramount and you do commuting or just Sunday driving. They also give superior economy over the earlier non-emission types."

[REXY]

Sold

[fLATCHAT]

[peelo]

Flatchat,

No, the info did not come from the book on how to power tune Webers and Dellortos. It came from the personal experience of a bloke on another website (I can't remember which one now as it was a long time ago). He convinced me that he knew what he was talking about.