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at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Brake pipe ?
Not bad mate, been up to my neck in this house renovation though, so haven't done much else lately.
The flaring tool set I have is similar to the one you were having the trouble with.
I found it works best if the clamping bar is in a vice, but I have flared joins on the car holding the tool by hand and they were fine.
Need to make sure the pipe is protruding exactly the right amount, and that the end has been cut dead straight and smoothed to get a decent flare, it may just be a practice thing as we used to make so many
The best tool I have used though is the Sykes Pickavant vice mounted set, I am fairly sure Rob Hoarder bought one as he could never get on with the other kind either
George,
Yes I know what you mean about looking crap.
I used genuine Ford green steel pipe when I did my MK1 RS2000 (borrowed from Dunton research facillity by a mate LOL) as I wanted it to look correct
The other problem with pipe on a roll cosmetically is it is impossible to get it 100% straight
By preference if I was doing a concours restoration I used the green stuff in straight lengths, that way it looked original, and could make very neat pipes, never had problems with the coating flaking off though on the pipes I used, also got some British Leyland original stuff a couple of times and that worked well too without flaking.
So if you want it to look pretty or original it's not much good, but for making quick easy rust resistant pipes it's spot on
For all of the trouble I have had with the flarer I purchased, I cut to length all of the pipes fitted the attachments and had the local brake place flare the correct flare in them. I replaced all of the lines in the escort plus a few spares of a few different lenghts in straight new green powdercoated steel pipe for about 35 dollars AUD. and I have some spare parts in the event of damage. All too easy.
the correct flaring tool for doing brake pipes
is brake flaring tool
are ball
or double flare
or 'V' flare
using any other type of flaring tool and you will not get the correct seating in the tub nut etc. coz the flare on the end will not be formed correctly
there are many budget type tools made specifically for the job as well as the more expensive tools
like snap on etc
but they must be described as above
we just sold a older spare we had last week at the swap meet for $50 which i know is not much help to you
bundy tube is what needs to be use as is designed for brake pipe easy to use and bend silver in color
copper will crack due to vibration. work hardens
stainless same as copper becomes brittle and can crack also. work hardens
Not sure about other states but went to Power Brakes in Adelaide and was told that the silver stuff hasn't been available in ages and if anybody had any it woould be old stock.
Asked about the green stuff and was told that that was made locally by Tubemakes but they now have stopped making that.
The stuff that is currently available is passivated zinc (goldy green) and comes in 5m lenghts from China (@$5/m). This stuff looks better than the green crap and with a light rub with scotchbrite starts looking similar to the original stuff.
The Norwood branch also sells stainless at around $20/m, however they said that they can do better on price is larger quantites are needed. I'm going with this option.
George,
Londons good so far?
PRB in norwood were more than helpfull, htey flarted my pipe for next to nothing as I bought all the bundy and fittings through them, well thats what i told them as I was in there so much for small parts at a time. Cant remember the guys name, shortish, bearded fella, also worked up at PRB holden hill on Saturday were was going first, Can't recommend them enough.
Hows the baby going and the garage.
JP