Rusty head bolts

[Darren W.]

Hello knowledgable ones,
1, 3 & 5 exhaust side head bolts are really rusty as is the thread in the block. I thought I lightly oiled these on assembly but maybe I didn't.......they should be oiled to help with correct staged tensioning, but should I be more liberal with the oil?
Thanks for your help and photo's attached.

[Roger Miller]

wow,

how longs that been sitting around ?

if fresh pull apart id be looking at a leak.


Either way, lightly oil bolts, or fear for splitting block due to hydraulicing.

[joe84]

i've never seen rusty bolts like that even out of an engine that looks as if its never been opened... be interesting to find out what wrong ? has the block been helicoiled at all ?

[Darren W.]

[Darren W.]

Finally putting it back together and the memory is sheit so torque wrench setting in NM are

stage 1 - 40NM
stage 2 - 70NM , wait 20mins then
stage 3 - 90NM , run engine for 25mins or not (?), then
final stage - 110NM.

Is this still correct for a Felpro head gasket or any thoughts?

Cheers

[Darren W.]

Have just found a Fel-Pro Installation Tips sheet in an old box and it states that 'the CORRECT cylinder head bolt torque for this is engine is 80-90 ft. lbs.' which is 108 NM to 122 NM and nothing about running engine for 25 mins. so I'm quessing that I just do the final stage torque to 120 NM cold.

[G Dub]

Ive never heard of running an engine before getting to the final torque setting

[PaulMK1]

I always re-check my head bolts after heat cycling an engine a few times...
(but maybe i'm old school)

[Roger Miller]

[Darren W.]

It's finally all back together and running but out of tune. With the extra head shaving to raise compression the timing is out so as a quick fix for the weekend, the cam is slightly in advance of the crank so should I be setting TDC timing on the dizzy to the crank or the cam.

And I think the problem of my engine miss turned out to be carboned up mixture screws 2 and 4 which were black whereas 1 and 3 were spottless. Didn't do them first time around as I didn't want to change them as I had just recently spent up big on a dyno tune, but found this IDF set-up guide so decided to have a look. Took six months to find but now know where else to look for problems, learning as I go.

Carburetor set-up and lean best idle adjustment ( for Progressive Carburetors )
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/c ... _best_.htm

Carburetor set-up and lean best idle adjustment (IDF Carburetors )
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf.htm

[Darren W.]

Next problem encounter is after noosa hillclimb there now seems to be a cam leak (usual signs on the bonnet) but the back of the cam is dry yet the front is wet?

My guess is that a cross drilled cam is hollow and can leak around the cam bolt, so I need to apply lock tight or sealant on the tread to stop this?

Cheers Darrren

[ozstang65]

Something like LOCTITE® Tight® might do the trick. I can't recall what I used on mine, possibly just some of the blue gasket stuff. Give the bolt and thread a good clean with prepsol or thinners first.

[gen mk 1rs2000]

[Darren W.]