external paintwork replication

[PeterM]

Hi Guys,
I am currently professionally restoring our sno white 2 door Mk2 RS Escort. The resto includes a complete body shell bare metal respray (all metal surfaces).

Considering our cars in unmodified condition are evaluating rapidly as collectors items, the pressure is to restore the car to "as from the factory", and period for that exact vehicle.

Obviously the paint colour must remain original as manufactured.
However complications start to arise from there.
In my case the original Ford paint was baked enamel from late 1979.
Obviously paint technology and quality has progressed heaps since those days.

Today, wonderfully, we have several choices of brands of two pack enamels. I have divided these into three distinct quality/brands.
"Brand A" is very good quality two pack and will last indefinitely.
"Brand B" is a much better quality with a much superior deep shine.
"Brand C" is by far the best quality and unbelievable deep eyecatching shine and seen on most of the professional show cars (and is by far the most expensive).

However, "Brand A" would be best match and would surpass the quality and shine of the original Ford baked enamel. Brand "B" and "C" even more so.

I know we are splitting hairs, but which would you consider the bestest choice to suit the originality specs?

The professionals restoring the expensive 1960/70's Falcons, Holdens and Mustangs all turn a blind eye and seem to choose the "Brand C" paint, even for concourse vehicles without considering the originallity of the 1960's and 1970's paint replication.

I am in a position to almost exactly reproduce the original Ford paint including original defects produced by Ford. The paint can be "pre-aged" also if necessary (OK, I won't add the black overspray onto the white though, which seemed to be standard for a lot of Escorts when new).

If you had the choice to buy one of three identical cars:
One with "Brand A" paint,
One with "Brand B" paint,
One with "Brand C" paint,
which would you buy and why??

Ideas??

Thanks heaps,
PeterM.

[Neville Bertwistle]

Peter,

I think the question is more what exactly are planning to do with the car? Are you going for the full concourse look, or do you just want a stunning looking road car.

In terms of value (and this is a general comment not just for Escorts), I've always found the immaculate unrestored cars to be the highest. Then comes the restored the concourse factory look, then the over restored ones, then everything else.

I've known a couple of guys who've restored cars in acrylic, complete with just the right amount of peel, to keep it original. And the paint is only the start. Then its all the factory clips, rubbers, tyres, even down to the exact nuts and bolts. No re-pro parts allowed - if it doesn't carry the manufacturer logo and part number it doesn't count.

How far are you prepared to go?

For me, if you're chasing that concourse win, then go A and try to get the paint as close to factory as you can. But make sure the rest of the car is just as concourse, down to every last nut & bolt. Whether your investment will yield a car that will have a value over and above that amount is questionable, but it will be the next best thing to an immaculate unrestored example.

If you plan to deviate in any way from original, then I feel you may as well go C and end up with the best paint job possible.

I'll be interested to hear what you decide.

[David W]

Its a personal thing and like Nev's says - if your using Paint A - then nothing can deviate from that and these 30/40 Yr old cars are getting harder to find bits & pieces for - let alone original mint/NOS.

If you are looking at a concours condition car then I applaud you - however keep in mind there may not be that many Escort afficianodos (?) that recognise the work that has gone into the car to achieve the outcome you're presenting. I haven't heard of any Escort Concours or Nationals that seems to grace the GT/Monaro/Torana/Charger/Jag events etc - but that doesn't mean this won't happen in the future.

In regard to concours - most people believe their opinion or idea on authenticity is the correct one and don't want to admit someone elses perception could be correct (GT Falcons with all these engine stamps/stickers is a classic example or matching the paint code on an XR GT Falcon -they are all done in different shades). The benchmark continues to be pushed higher & higher in terms of authenticity (I believe Mustang clubs in the US have 'levels' of authenticity in their judging categories). Check out a copy of 'Retro Ford' a few months ago and the guy in the UK has emulated the overspay on the underside of the floor plan in his restoration.

So what is it your trying to achieve - a big dollar garage queen that sees the light of day once or twice a year? or a very nice car that can be driven in the rain?

I like nothing more then getting the head nod of appreciation or a thumbs up when your sitting at traffic lights in my RS.

[Mark Cogan]

I always found that in terms of value the best restored cars were worth more than the original untouched cars, although this is because I have never seen an original car that was really that perfect, I am sure if there were any truly original cars with almost no mileage, that had no defects then their value would be right up there too.

When I first restored my MK1 RS2000 (11 years ago) it was one of the best concours Escorts in the UK, in those days however most people still drove them to events, and cleaned them there if it rained, I used to carry a touch up pot of paint to get rid of the stone chips I collected when hooning through the lanes on my way to shows, ojnce the car had a quick buff up, I would bugger off and enjoy the show until judging time, occasionally venturing back to chat to people who asked about my car.
I picked up a collection of trophies along the way and enjoyed the competition and rivalry among my fellow "competitors".

My car was finished using 2 pack paint, I used wrinkly stonechip underneath, and also painted the underside, this makes the car much easier to keep clean, and is my preferred finish for a concours car, I did spend a lot of time making sure details were mostly correct, and the car is assembled using mostly original parts, fitted correctly.

But then the Cheque Book restorations started to come out, these guys would buy a car, send it to the specialists, get everything done whatever the cost, every item they could buy (at any price) that was an original New Old Stock part was purchased and fitted.
And then once finished they would never drive the car again, it would simply get trailered from one event to another, the car would also be covered completely for the whole journey.
When the car was pushed off of the trailer and into it's parking spot the wheels would be changed (as they didn't want the "originals" to ever roll across the dirt) and a small army of people would usually start cleaning and detailing every nook and cranny, this would continue throughout the whole day, with the owners and assistants never leaving their posts, in case some dirt appeared and the car was judged in that condition.
Many of them would sit there stern faced the whole time, and rarely engaged in any competition with people who stopped to see their cars, for these people the whole game was too serious for any enjoyment.
I have seen husband and wifes almost come to blows over not vacuming a carpet properly before a show, on a car that has never been driven anyway.

Some of the cars that have been rebuilt are astonishing though, and they would be great on a big rotating mirrored stand in a museum, just so we can admire the work that went into them.

I would say build the car that you want, go as far as you see fit in your restoration, and enjoy whatever you do with it,
but like many things in life don't take it too seriously, it's not worth obsessing over, and if you are already worrying about paint brands at this stage you may end up with this car taking over your life (I have seen that happen a few times too)

[Mark Cogan]

Just as another thought, I am not sure about over here, but the UK cars were built during a time when we had one of the laziest and most militant workforces ever, trade unions had full control, and people were virtually un-sackable, so because of this the build quality of these cars is often utter sh1te.

I wonder whether anyone in their quest to restore these cars authentically has ever considered leaving some stuff loose, creating a few oil leaks, fitting wonky stripes and badges, or even leaving a mouldy ham sandwich in the spare wheel well.

Now that would make for a very authentic 70's Ford restoration

[smcka]

[PeterM]

[Mark Cogan]

[PeterM]

Hi Guys,
After visiting the All Fords Day here in Sydney last weekend we have chosen to restore the RS to close to original factory as possble. At the show we saw many over restored cars of various models and in a way not what we wanted with our car. All of the RS Escorts on show were wonderfully restored and presented and a credit to their owners. What we will be pursuing with our project is to restore the car to as it was when delivered to the first owner ie mechanically, paint, tyre correct etc. We will be careful not to over restore. I still own from new an original RS which we will continually check against during the resto of the second car. On completion both cars will compliment each other. The paint choice is the "Brand A" and will closely match what Ford would have done on a good day.
Thank you for your input with this. I will keep in touch with developments as the restoration develops.

[Mark Cogan]

Good luck Peter, take plenty of pictures, it's always good to see restorations in progress

[PeterM]

[Mark Cogan]

[PeterM]

[Neville Bertwistle]

[PeterM]

[Paul Dunstan]