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[ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4752: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - The Rebuild Begins
I have been thinking of building a basic flowbench so that I can see how my head performs vs others. I have also been thinking about having a go at porting a few old heads just to see what that get up is all about. Not sure if I will though as it means buying some larger valves and paying to get larger valve seats ground - possibly not expensive.
In order to flow my head I need to remove the valves. To get the camshaft out I assume I remove the spring clips from the followers, undo the lock nuts on the adjustment posts and adjust the posts to get enough clearance to remove followers. The cam then just pulls straight out? Are the bearings reuseable or will they always get replaced? All three?
To remove the spring retainers I need a proper spring compressor or can G-clamps be used?
I guess I would then refit any old lightweight spring that fits to hold the valve shut then make up a mechanism to open the valve progressively by the appropriate amounts?
pinto cam bearings are apparently hard to come by in the correct material...Roger was having difficulty sourcing them in what he considered OK. I belive if they are 'fine' when the cam is removed then they are OK for reuse. The key is knowing what 'fine' is A proper spring compressor is always usefull, not necessarily for removal but for refitting the spring retainers they are a must.
Been waiting for a mate to be free to take a look at rebuilding this motor next week (famous last words!). Trying to save sheckles so at this time will not get Milton's to do the labour work just the machining.
I currently have Mahle forged pistons (dont know the model/product number but assume I will find it under the skirt when I look). Where would you recommend I look to purchase new a one(s)? Thinking UK or USA but any specific companies?
Just re-read this thread. On the detonation issue, is getting the combustion chamber, pistons tops and/or valve heads ceramic coated going to help things? No idea of the cost of getting that done or who does it in SA.
If you're going to get one custom made and you're better off getting 4 and getting something lighter and I would go tot the US for bang for buck and as far as ceramic coating don't bother as all that will happen is your detonation will rattle it loose and anyway the best thermal barrier is carbon
Just checked the 2 pistons I currently have with me and they both show 92P17 on the underside. 92 is easy to understand as they are 92mm but does P17 have any meaning? Is that describing the crown height?
Did a very brief net search for that code number and found nothing!!
It appears that a brand other than Mahle is being suggested by some. Will swapping over to another brand be a simple exercise i.e. will the same dimension piston be available thus eliminating the need for additional rework? I guess the critical dimensions are the bore and the pin to crown distance??? (...continue to go easy on me.....remember this is an engine learning exercise for me )
Finished a more extensive net search and now believe the 92P17 number is only a forging number. Where would the part number normally be???
I have read a couple of Mahle catalogues but nowhere does it describe their numbering system. In fact I can only find catalogues refering to the US 2.3 Pinto motor and then only in inches. I don't know where to go from here in order to find the current Mahle item I have or various other brand alternatives. gr
Yes it will probably only be the forging blank that was used and then finished from there as most part number for custom pistons are either etched or engraved I would either ring Mahle or order some decent US forged pistons
Thanks. Cossie rods are 128.5mm from memory so nowhere near the yanks 5.7"
Seeing as I asked for Danny's piston manufacturer recommendation I may as well ask, what makes one piston better than another? Weight is obviously an issue. Material used? What else?
That's actually a tough question. If you have already considered material and weight, then next I would argue consistency of weight. I've heard from a mate that so called piston sets from the states for v8's can vary dramatically requiring more money to be spent balancing the set. Next I would consider quality of supplied gudgeon pins and rings. Divide all that by price should give you an answer of sorts.
Mk 2 Escort Sports Sedan 2L N/A YB Cosworth engine rebuild completed. 100% Mongrel FORD...actually Oz block & crank, Yankee pistons, English head & rods, Ozzie cams & valves!
To be honest I'm not a fan of the Wossner pistons and yes I would use a CP or failing that a JE. As far as Ross goes they gave me the shits as there was no consistency as the ring lands from batch to batch would be different and the gudgeon weights were a surprise with some variance and putting in their spiroloks is a pain in the arse compared to a wire ring lock. As far as balancing goes we haven't seen any variance in weights Glenn if you're having to have a set of pistons made and grinding a crank why don't you ditch the YB rods on ebay and put some decent length rods in as it's a good time to put some L16 rods in which are 133mm
I just looked at the Wossner site and at their YB naturally aspirated pistons. 12.5 to 1 compression. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL. Must have to use a 0.250" lift camshaft!
Cheers Danny. Depending on the level of the rebuild I have considered longer rods however I didn't realise that 133mm was possible (remember, I am on L-plates here).
When buying from CP or JE I assume they are custom made rather than a stock item. Cannot find anything suitable from a search of their off the self gear. Hope the lead-times are not too long.
Appreciate everybodies input. Best way to learn is to pull the motor apart and ditch the textbooks
The time and money you spend looking for L16 rods then getting them prepped could be easier to ring Steve Brown at Quantum Racing in Brisbane and get a quote for CP pistons and rods. You'll need lots of information to do it properly the first time out but it will be easier than trying to match your Cossie rods to an aftermarket piston(Like I had to with my Farndon 136mm rods and CP pistons) Allow about 8 weeks for a custom order.
My block is sleeved for under 2L but the jury is still out on how reliable it will be.
PS: From bitter experience make sure you measure your deck height properly before ordering your rods and pistons
Mk 2 Escort Sports Sedan 2L N/A YB Cosworth engine rebuild completed. 100% Mongrel FORD...actually Oz block & crank, Yankee pistons, English head & rods, Ozzie cams & valves!