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headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Progress
I have been using measurements from centerline of top of main openings, front and rear windows. Then hanging a weight when the car is parallel to the ground measured across the bottom of the openings. I figure these are the most unlikely to be twisted due to previous hits. The left inner sill to trans tunnel and chassis rail is about 20mm out compared to the drivers side top edge of sills measures within 4mm side to side. Car did align fine previously though so wheel are at least straight...car is 43 years old
The ground is old concrete but probably flat enough. the Rotisserie is what makes it not flat. I don't trust the sills to measure car centerline but the window openings are more likely OK So, find center of them drop the bob after setting the car parallel and thats the centerline of the trans tunnel, from there I can measure the discrepancies Cheers JP
Think I agree with John. At the end of the day the shell is just a shell covering the suspension and bits that touch the ground. Having said that I think I took several days to measure the centre line when building my car using every conceivable point and then still dont think I did a good job. Car runs straight.....I think
Doing well Justin. Soon be running again! Just shout if you need a hand.
Remember the centerline I'm looking for is one for setting panel gaps and the like not major components like suspension. This is extensive re-decoration... Anyway chop chop,
buzz buzz weld weld
Finally finished the front floors and bulkhead, next trick is grinding and body filler Started removing old exhaust, bump stop and tramp bar brackets and diff hump and the rear parcel shelf and bulkhead ready to start the turrets and link boxes
New seat! And it both fits between the tunnel and sill and doesnt need to be on an angle to close the door like the old one.
waiting on new front panel, radiator surround, flitch panels, seat mounts, intercooler, radiator hoses and many other parts. Start on the 4 link boxes today...
No going back now! damn floor crumbled when the slitting disks came close. To thin metal from removing something in the past and from the welding of the radius arms. Ended up with 60mm wide holes to get back to decent metal to fit the 50mm wide link boxes...Damn it But nothing a few folded and radius-ed angle sections couldn't sort. Used threaded rod to get the holes aligned and then started the 2 hour alignment process consisting of a trim here grind there a tap here and a twist there a tack there a tack there and then a big hit over there and another few tacks, measure all again another big hit and hey presto parallel, square and even...pity the rest of the car isn't as good. Don't know what I'm putting more photos up as you all know what they look like alignment
JP, when I fitted my 2 piece boxes, Gartrac said to have the boxes slightly out of parallel to account for the rotational movement of the axle. The front were 778mm centres and the rears 762mm. Not sure that those specific measurements apply to other brands of boxes.
Also can you confirm which rear firewall templates you are after? Is it the section that forms the seat back or the sections that go between the outside quarter panel and the inner panel ie the hard to reach part up on top of the wheel arch? Had a brief look for templates but not found them yet...
All the advice and drawings I gathered, for the clubman kit was to have the mounting holes aligned, hence the threaded rod top and bottom which passes through both sides and clamps the boxes square. Then setting height and distance from centerline is easier...My ass! these are as high as I could get them too for ultra low track car. I will have to notch the chassis rail over the diff Anyway too late now, lest see how it all goes! GULP
Its the hard to reach rear 1/4 over the the wheel arch infill pieces I'm hoping to find a template for
Just ordered new coilover conversion for rear shock absorbers, they are only 600 Km's old it would be rude not too! also new coilovers for the new front Bilstein Capri struts as I just sold the older Mk2 set. Lets see whats quicker, coilover parts from UK or seat rails from Aus.
JP
Last edited by jpayne on Mon May 19, 2014 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
Will look during my next study break. If I had thought about it I would have concluded that the clubman boxes do have to be square due to the bolt holes. The 2 piece ones allow for the long section to be glued on out of square but still have the bolt holes square! derrr
From memory i used stiff paper to get an approx shape then modified from there until it fitted. Remember that you dont want the plate to fill the entire hole i.e. you do not want the blanking plate toughing the quarter panel. If it does then over time you will start to see a line on the outside of the car where that plate meets the quarter panel. The gap between the blanking plate and the quarter panel needs to be filled with an intumescent filler. The blanking plate only needs to be tacked into place then filler used to fill the gaps meaning the template isn't an exact science!
Stuart that's probably exactly the piece except for the Mk1. Can I have a copy of the CAD drawing as the inner shape would be the same just the outer skin is different. As Oz said it s not exact science. Cheers
If you're going to foam, fill, just get a piece of foam rubber or sponge and stuff it in there. if it's roughly to shape to start with it will sit pretty flat.
A week off and back onto it this weekend Link Boxes finished
Drivers side Turret opening cut and flanges formed. not sure on the fitting yet, turret doesn't sit flat against chassis rail and is also curved. big hammer time I think
Also have to have the link bars thread repaired as all bar one are too tight! New front panels arrived but no Flitch panels, A miss order there so wing rails not finished. Going to mount seat on floor utilising longitudinal flats under the whole seat mount rather than on tube running across car. Will be lower and better supported. Progress is slow but getting there.
A few family health issues caused pause but a few hours on our recent long weekend! I know you've all seen it before but... cleaned up the old bulkhead remnants of the rear tubs and cut the second hole for other turret. all fitted aligned at 8 degrees towards the centre and equal height and offset from centerline.
Thinking about using ratcheting type straps for the fuel tank...any comments, advice, experience? Received a set of Nitto Nt01's 205/50 and 225/50 15 (thought worth a shot given the good positive feedback Ive found at a fraction of the price of A050's), a set of compression struts, mastercylinder for clutch, new brake rotor tabs... sold my onlty set Ahh, and am awaiting the new coilover conversions for each end, new catch-tank, new gearknob to go with the new T5 short shifter, am also awaiting a new wiring loom from the US, local guys wouldn't or couldn't answer my questions so lost business there. JP