MK1 RS2000 project

[Matt1975]

Looking Good,

Good luck

Matt

[PaulMK1]

The weekend didn't end well - We finished SS2 with a death rattle in the bottom of the engine

Here's some footage: http://youtu.be/9VO1gmomg04

It was my first real attempt at driving on notes - and there is a lot of room for improvement in my driving. The car was excellent - the new engine was amazing while it lasted. Got to 170km/h on the mid straight with a cog still left to go. My nav called the end too early so I blame him for the early breaking.

[MOOSE]

[PaulMK1]

The RaceTune car didn't even make the start!

Mine appears to have eaten the dipstick. The P-clip hendla part is still in the top of the tube but the flexible shaft has been munched and left in the sump and wrapped around the crank:

Bottom of sump


Crank


#3


It's made a few marks of the underside of the pistons too:




But the bores and skirts look to be OK.

I'll pull the pistons and get them checked out but hopefully I will be able to re-use. The bearings have a few marks too which i'm not sure if is to be expected:

[MOOSE]

[ozstang65]

No need to run a dipstick during an event, plug the hole and keep the dipstick in the toolbox if you must.



Hope it works out to be not too expensive...

[Matt1975]

Hey Paul,

Really sorry to hear this.

Hopefully it turns out to be something simple and you're back up and racing in no time.

Cheers,

Matt

[PaulMK1]

The crank is away being polished and new bearings have been ordered. The feeling is i'll get away with a damn good clean and re-assembly.

Before and during....


The worst two have been mostly sorted tonight - I still need to polish with a finer grade of wet and dry:


Also found this inside the dizzy:

so i'm not sure how much longer we would have got anyway!

[Matt1975]

Do you know why / how it happened?

Matt

[MK1_Oz]

The how is always very important. Stops it happening again. Feel bigtime for you mate.

[PaulMK1]

I have to agree 100% on the how statement!

1) Dipstick - I assume this was a poor design:
The flexible shaft seems to have fatigued where in joins the handle; this maybe due to excessive engine vibration when I first got the engine running. Also the hole in the baffle is very tight so potentially when inserted it slide along the top of the baffle rather than down through the hole.

2) Rotor Arm: This was a second hand dizzy I threw in when trying to find the breaking down issue on the dyno. I have no idea how old that rotor is etc. When I installed the MSD I did get a modified rotor with the resisitor removed which is still in the original dizzy

3) Flywheel - it turns out the ARP bolts have come loose and this explains the knocking noise. Fortunately the dowl held preventing further damage. This one is still a mystery since i'm 100% certain I torque them up to the ARP specs. So I'm suspecting either my torque wrench ins't accurate or the crank threads were dirty, giving a false reading. This time i'll insert them dry and use locktight instead of the ARP lube (and clean the threads).

[Avon]

Sorry to hear about the rough weekend but thats 3 things that won't be going wrong at the next event.

Was that rotor from the dizzy you got from me?

[Danny M]

What torque setting are you using

[PaulMK1]

Avon - Yes it was your dizzy rotor! Good job I haven't paid you for it yet


Danny: My instructions list 55ft lbs - I did them upto 65ft lbs.

Interestingly I have just queried the part number on the ARP site and get different instructions: http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/151-2801.pdf

[jpayne]

Im guessing your missing the chamfer that all ARP flywheel bolts seem to need
Justin

[Danny M]

PAul have you got the piece of paper that came with bolts as I had an issue with them years ago as I was trying t o get away from using the ARP moly lube as the @#$% sprays everywhere and I ended up phoning ARP and got a different set of figures and then they went back and had a look at their stock and there was some older sets amongst the mix with a much higher figure again
The other issue is have you weighed the clutch and the flywheel and does the flywheel weigh more than the clutch

[Darren W.]

[PaulMK1]

Danny: Yes I do have the piece of paper. These are from Burtons (ARPFW02) with a different part number to the link I posted above FB1150/6 - actually the instructions have kent cams printed on the top now I look again! The bolts are stamped ARP PRO

I'll check tomorrow now but yes there is a very good chance the clutch is heavier than the flywheel

[PaulMK1]

I just called Burtons and they stated they buy all their ARP kits via Kent Cams - therefore I need to take up the issue with Kent!

[Danny M]

Can you scan in the sheet or sms it to me