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[ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - instrument wiring escort mk1
All the MK1 6 dials plug straight into any MK1 loom, you just have to add the oil pipe for the pressure gauge, and plug the white loop from the tacho into the black ignition wire.
If you are unsure about your temp gauge just try discinnecting the wire at the engine end, and shorting it to earth while the ignition is on, check the gauge, if it goes quickly right up to the stop it is working fine, but you may need a temp sender with different resistance.
Contrary to what the aftermarket suppliers say, there were many different resistance values on Ford senders, and these mated to different engine/ dashboard combos, they are colour coded to tell them apart.
The volt gauge is never very acuurate, basically anywhere in the green running with a charged battery is right.
As for the tacho, is it wired correctly? it should have no connections to the coil, basically it picks up power from the dash/loom feed, and picks up pulse signals from the black ignition wire that connects to the small white sensor cable (hard to explain without a picture), that white wire passes a pickup on the tacho.
It's not uncommon for the tacho's to be rooted, and also to need a "charge up" because of the pick up type they usually need a good run to work right if they have been standing for ages.
Finally there is one way it can get difficult, the very early cars had different looms to later ones.
good information
it's a '74 so Im hoping its the better loom you were speaking of.
yes the car has been sitting for a long time but idled regularly (previous owner) ahh well... gives me something to do tomorrow
Re the inquiries in Jul 2008 about converting std escort mk1 dash to 6-dial. I've just done that and have hooked up wiring loom as per "post 69 all models" diagram off net. Mine is a mk1 1970 with pinto + alternator conversion. When attempting to hook up the tacho it just whips round past 7000 off the scale when ignition is swtiched on, i.e. before even cranking the engine. Cant figure out whats going on here? Any ideas? I'm hoping the gauge. Is an old tacho repair costly?
With the black loop wire that goes through back of tacho (mine is not white), does it just feed through the hole in the plastic bit, with no metal to metal contact? Excuse my ignorance here.
Plus, temp gauge works but by the time normal operating temperature is reached the gauge is off the scale (no, its not overheating). Mark Cogan gave some good advice and commented that it may be incorrect sender unit, i.e. wrong resistance for gauge. Mine is definately aftermarket sender. Any ideas on what resistance sender to get compatible with early mk1 7000rpm/mph GT/mexico style 6-dial.
Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers, Richard from NZ.
Sounds like a voltage regulator problem (quite often attached to the back of the instrumen cluster). I'm pretty sure the original gauges all run through the regulator which feeds them less than 12v (no idea exactly what it is).
The tacho is inductive, just a loop, no physical connection.
i had similar problems with my car the temp & fuel gauges were fine but the tacho & volt gauges were a problem for memory all those years ago , i ran a new tach wire to the coil and sourced a volt gauge from an xc falcon gt , same ..but maybe diferent resistance ??? the other main problem with 6 dial dash is the conector plug they realy are just crap pommy electrics mine was more complicated as it was one of the ausy content ones with extra bits like 4 way flashers , brake warning light , & kph speedo as far as i am aware there was never a proper wiring diagram for a mk1rs2000 au
Cheers, for that. I'm certain that its all hooked up correctly now, its just that dammed black-yellow power wire that makes it go haywire as soon as the key is turned. The funny thing is that I know the tacho works because I ran a wire straight from the power terminal on the back of the tach to the (-ve) side of the coil. I know that isnt correct but it showed the tach worked.
I might just hook it up as per the diagram and see if the needle comes back and starts to work?
Yeah, temp gauge ok now. I needed to run it through the voltage reg on back of dash. Fuel gauge not ok but I think that may be the sender unit.
Hi Mark, Just a question. You said that the tach might come good by itself after a bit of running and you have experienced this before. Before yours came good, was the needle just not moving at all or was it behaving like mine, i.e flicking round past 7000 off the scale?
I think Leon has hit the nail on the head, if you look back to my original post I said the tachometer wire white loop plugs into the black, not black and yellow.
On many of the standard dial cars there will be a break point in this black wire with grey male and female bullets to disconnect and join to the inductive tachometer wire, but on some looms there is not and you have to cut it.
But in answer to your question, yes I have had the rev counter go all the way to the top, then unstick itself shortly after ( when connected correctly)
Yes, when I took the dash out, the black loop wire was sitting there with a connector as per standard escort model. Thats all hooked up now through the tacho loop as per diagram. The black-yellow is also there and, yes, it is also feeding the voltmeter directly and the fuel and water (via the voltage reg). Soooooo, I'm going to take it for a spin and see if it "unsticks" itself.