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[ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4752: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - DIY Coil-Overs & Spherical Top Bearing Mount
Hi All, I mentioned this little project in another thread so to avoid a hijack I thought I'd start a new topic for it.
We started with a set of 2ltr struts with Koni adjustable inserts and King springs (220lbs I think). We didn't want to buy new shorter shocks and had limited time to do the job in, so I was determined to come up with a design to keep the standard length struts and shocks. That being said, I think we are on the limit when it comes to having acceptable suspension travel, and making the car any lower would definitely need shorter struts/shocks.
Parts List:
1x Ototmoto spring kit: HSD Sleeve kits, 51mm I.D. for the threaded sleeve 5kg/mm rate spring (approx 280lb/in)
2x Imperial spherical bearing ABWT 12 from Linear Bearings
2x Internal circlips, 37mm O.D.
2x 45mm Round Mild Steel Bar, 25mm long
2x 6mm plates, big enough to fill the hole in your inner guard.
We decided not to make the top plates adjustable, instead we just put the bearing as far back and as far inward as we could get. We ended up with -3.5 camber and 3.5 castor with the inner lower arm mounting points moved up and out (these measurements I do not know)
The drawings show all the parts from Otomoto as well as a very roughly drawn strut (important dimensions are correct though!). The only parts we had to make were the top and bottom spacers, the bearing housing and the housing mounting plate, as well as drill out the top spring mount to suit the shock. We also cut the original bump stop down to about 30mm (in half). On the strut we welded a ring on the outside to hold the threaded spring adjuster tube instead fo welding the tube to the strut directly.
The top mounting plates were tack welded together for match drilling and marked for bolt holes from the existing inner guard cutout. Our top plates ended up being octagonal shaped, mainly due to us not having an oxy set to make them nice and round, we just trimmed the corners off instead. This size was just big enough to fit into the lathe and machine out the hole for the bearing housing.
Hopefully the drawings explain the setup, ask away if you have any questions. When I have said 'We' in this post, I have meant my father and I. I did all the measuring/design/drawings/part sourcing and he manufactured them.
Attachments
MachinedParts.jpg (53.89 KiB) Viewed 26578 times
Data.jpg (75 KiB) Viewed 26578 times
AssemblyCutaway.jpg (78.61 KiB) Viewed 26578 times
AssembledStruts.jpg (144.34 KiB) Viewed 26578 times
[Fill it full of holes if u feel it will make a difference]
These bearings.
Note the spacers a friend turned up.
they allow twice the angle.
However that's not a concern, as the inner wing works out pretty close to 90 degrees, when installed.
I used 1.6MM ? [from memory] tube approx 20mm long, then cut up 2 more @ 5mm long and cut open to suit id of longer bit.
These were edge welded inside 20mm long tube to act as bearing retainers.
No circlips.
Bearing assembly was then welded at 3 positions to plate.
Zero problems with this in god knows how long.
I wanted to retain spring top perches at top of strutt, so there was a step in RX Koni inserts, so they stay there. A small amount of relieving was needed on perch to allow angular difference in suspension travel.
I now have tender springs, so dont get a bang everytime it comes off jacks.
Last edited by Roger Miller on Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.