RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

Damion,

To dial in the timing you need a dial gauge and mount, and a degree wheel.

The degree wheel goes on the crank with a wire pointer mounted to whatever is conveniant. I sandwich mine between washers so it will rotate but with a fair bit of drag so it can be aligned with TDC.

Actual TDC of the engine has to be found, crank pulley markings won't do. This can be done with the dial gauge on a YB as the spark plug hole is vertical. Best to do this in the part of the cycle with the valves shut. The pointer of the dial gauge go in the plug hole of cyl 1 and touches the top of the piston. Dwell at TDC will make it difficult so compare readings slightly each side of TDC between the dial gauge and degree wheel. Split the difference to find TDC. Adjust the wheel / pointer until you get them aligned at TDC.

Once satified you have nailed real TDC move the dial gauge to a lifter on cyl 1, get it set parrallel to the valve centreline. Rotate the engine and note degree readings for lift start, 0.050" lift or whatever your cam is specced at, max lift, 0.050" lift on the closing side and lift finish.

Max lift dwell means you will have to take a reading sligthly either side and split the differences to get a max lift reading.

You should end up with some numbers that representative of the cam card plus or minus the odd degree.

If your camwheel is devoid of degree markings then just adjust the cam a little and take a new set of degree readings. Re-adjust as necessary.

Repeat lift readings / adjustmnment for the other cam.

Degreeing the cams to a spec sheet doesn't ensure best out put from an engine.

Adjusting duirng a dyno session is the bast way to get the most form your combo.

Degreeing gets you in the ballpark and the dyno fine tunes to suit the whole package.

If buying aluminium ones get the hard annodised, the bling finish doesn't last long.

Can't say I'd reccomend a particular brand, but I never liked the look of the kent design for stress risers. I bought piper for mine but they have a couple stress riser points too, but not as bad as the kent design.

I see someone selling some on ebay occassionally that look sturdy in a postage stamp pic, but close inspection might show otherwise.

Cam wheel markings to guide adjustment make it easier but not necessary to get the job done.

I only interprit Danny's comments as never let Danny touch a forced induction engine.

Any tosser can make a forced induction go as it's just cheating for christs sake

Danny

Danny,

Any tosser can just crank up the boost, which seems to be your mind set on forced induction engines, re-inforcing my previous interpretation of your comments.

It's only cheating when the rules don't allow it, and someone stumps up a protest fee and you get busted.

Stones, kettle, glass, pot............ mean anything to you ?

I'll re-iterate that John anything that needs a blower is a cocked up design as any tosser can strap blower on any engine
Go and read the Cosworth Search for Power Book


Danny

Danny,

I've read the book.

Keith Duckworth didn't like the DFV being beaten by turbo engines, fair enough, he had a vested interest in the status quo. FIA thought renault et al were within the rules. KD's point was a turbo provided a second expansion phase which the FIA had no issue with.

How many of your imagined tossers get 1200 to 1500 hp out of 1.5L engine ?

Sure as hell the 'tossers' at renault et al would have the cams well and truly dialled in, no matter what boost they ran.

Your vested interest is N/A, but its poor form to tell Damion to not bother doing a good job of what he's got.