here we go

[jpayne]

Guys,
I have an AP 3 plate 7.25 clutch, matching AP lightweight steel flywheel and a T5 gearbox. Im looking for a Concentric Hydraulic throwout/release bearing.
What have you guys used?
I need one with a radiused or tapered bearing face, not flat and 52mm diameter (clutch fingers are 47mm internal to opposing sides).
My preference would be one that needs minimum if any bellhousing modifications though If necessary it can be done. I dont want to use an external slave mounted onto the standard arm.


Thanks, hope you can help.

Regards,

Justin p

[jsa]

Justin,

I've used a saab 9000 unit on a dellow/supra box, which required machining and adapters. This has the type of bearing you need.

Some yank T5's have concentric slaves, don't know what would be involved with fitting to the cossie T5.

[Lincoln]

Reyland do a kit. Not sure on price.

http://reyland.co.uk/

I have used a quartermaster hydraulic cyl (for tremec tko box though I am sure they do a series for a T5) with a release bearing from Helix. They have a good range of release bearings.

http://www.helix-autosport.com/groupa.asp

Are you sure it is not 54mm radius?

[jpayne]

lincoln do you have any pictures?
Im narrowing it down and tilton are leading the pack at the moment.

cheers.

Justin p

[Lincoln]

Yep.

What pics do you want??

[jpayne]

sorry mate,
pics of the quartermaster gear in situ if you have them.
cheers,
Justin P

[SPEEDY]

German made, medium price range???
Any one used them, have an opinion, heard any rumors, want to make some up?
Have been recommended accralite pistons but just checking the market?
Cheers,
Justin P


http://www.woessner-kolben.de/english/indexenglish.html

Woessner are excellent racing pistons. We use them in various different engines, N/A and Turbo, and have never had a "piston" problem. They are very reasonably priced too.

Speedy.

[jpayne]

Turning may attention to oiling. Is it worth the extra weight and plumbing for a remote filter, other than making th eoil filter easier to change. Has anyone experience with Mocal products? Any thoughts.

Does a oil cooler go before or after the filter?

Cheers

Justin P

[Damion Parkin]

The first issue would be finding somewhere to put the remote filter set up.. an escort engine bay is pretty jam packed with all the YB Turbo stuff in there !

[jpayne]

Next thing I need is a 3 bolt T3 turbo downpipe flange. Anyone, especially the brits or ex brits, know where these may be purchased. or why they are so hard to find.
cheers

Justin P

[jpayne]

Ok so not really any progress on the car, but a bit of an tale to tell.
Back from the Uk for a few weeks I thought idtake the mk1 for spin. Coincidentally Winton had a Private practice day on friday the 6th. A quick call from the UK and the details were stored. 120 for the day, 50 for a AASA license, a unleaky car and a race suit...easy
Gulp, Is my race suit in the car, in the boxes stored at mum and dads or in our packed storage in Adelaide? Ah a quick phone cal to mum and dad reveals my forethought at packing it in the car!
Woohoo.
So I arrive home on Monday night after a 24 hour flight with no sleep. Damn im getting old as I used to be asleep before we got on the plane. So jet lag was a problem for the first few days. I spen tuesday with the folks and finall get to the car late tuesday night. its dark, the cars dirty, and none of the work I asked the old man to do before he used it was done. Oh can I get it done in time.
My partner was Sydney bound for thursday and Friday so this gave me Thursday to prep the car, So first thing I pick it up from my sisters and take it to the hand car wash on the trailer. it had been covered in a car cover which dropped all its flocking, not to mention it had not been washed since last I did it 2 year ago, there was rubber up the arches and brake dust everywhere. So a good clean and soem tar remover and polish later it was sorted and as shiny as the day I left it. Ok the front towing eye was mashed flat into the apron and the odd hairline crack in the fiberglass arches but generally ok.
So the list of work to do was worrying. Get the thermo fan to work which stopped at Sandown 18 monthgs ago. It boiled over in the dummy grid there as the fan didnt work. Get the lift pump working as it stopped working 18 months ago also at sandown, move the seat into my position, clean the inside, install a bump stop, adjust the front ride height from full lift, so it could get onto the Adelaide, Melbourne transport truck, over 2 years ago, adjust the konis to hardish, rather than full sof, again to aid in ytransport and finally to do a wheel alignment as well as a spanner check, radiator flush and fluid change.
the electrical was easy. I replaced a fuse and reconnected a wire which may have vibrated free fromn the fan relay. the fluids were easy, the flush also so but i discovered the water filter almost blocked with a white slightly greasy grainy substance (any ideas?). but back to that later. So a good flush ov the radiator reevealed no further gunk!
Then finally the wheel alignment. I had tried to call an old mate who owns a pedders and is me friendly, thought Id get it in, but he was on holidays so no go there. Ill string it up I thought, wast I thought, so 3 hours later I finally get the strings parallel to the car centerline and adjusted for the 1mm out of square diff housing. Now I asked for a wheel alignm,ent to be done before the old guy drove it as I bolted it all back together after doing he arches etc and ran out of time prior to sending the car to melbourne and heading to the Uk. He had raced 2 events at rob roy and one sprint at sansown with a total of 24mm toe out across the front end. F..k! no wonder it bucked and twisted on and off the trailor as the wheels pulled in different directions, also no wonder he was slow compared to others as it must have scrubbed 10 seconds a lap and 50 percent of the tyres! so a new alignment was set, it looked a lot better and didnt squeal or tear. The ride height looked better too with a drop of about 1.5 inches from transport height and of course now the spring platforms were locked together not floating.
Spanner check showed up the alternator top bolt missing but the bottom done up so tight th elaternator belts barely lost tension, so that fixed all was good. I thought.
Onto the trailor, car packed and we set off at 6:30 for a 9:00 am arrival. We stopped past his factory to pick up a jerry can and spare wheel to discover a flat in the spare. So another stop at the local tyre place, a new tyre on the old rim to discover a buckle preventing it seal properly. Its a HK holden 13 inch which is quite rare, good for low trailer ride height, but hard to find. of course the inside of the rim was crusty, so a rsky tube insertion was our only option. Then we discover a screw in the tread of the patrol tow cars front left. Luckily we were at a tyre place and a quick fix later we got underway at 8:30!
easy trip up the hume after negotiating friday peak traffic to arrive at 40+ degree Winton at 11:00am.....
Oh well a relaxing day was expected despite the heat so an hour late was OK. So dad and I head to register and Brother in law unloads the trailer, then with 40psi per wheel it was quickly out onto the track for the first session. It was great to be back! ahh I love winton and the gearing is perfect, the wide track feels good and the new suspension and LSd is everything I hoped for. The front end was planted and the rear end was lihe it was sitting on a caster wheel. then it Overheated! F..k. I fixed all this with a three row and tripple pass core, and new everything else. F..k. So after 5 laps back into the pits for a diagnosis. apart from losing water into the catch tank, only about a litre, it was boiling but still strong and great oil pressure. So I topped it up and sent the old fella out, back in again agter 3 or 4 laps boiling again. I tried a few things, checked for a blown head gasket but again no real signs of drama bar loosing water. So between sessiosn ai flushed it all and replenished the water and out to try again. This time I set the Grb's to 32 psi and the front end was better, great turn in and no push, the rear end was even worse, perhaps like a single ice skate on ice! damn fun though! Captain drift was the name of the game, had a duel with a Kinswood, much better under brakes, much quicker through the corners but it suffers down the straights just... Ok My recent driving was a Volkswagen Transporter in London so my lines were poor but I did finally compose to pull up beside down the back straight ready for a last minute brake duel into the corner when I hit the rev limiter and all play stops...bup, bup, bup and the head stretches of the neck as all forward momentum comes to a halt. Ah the shift light is not set properly!
anyway I get past, fall off 2 corners later as the power slide turns into a tank slapper and it gets hot again. The temperature stabilised until I slowed down and pitted then it boiled. Damn it. So the old guy heads out for the lat 5 minutes of the sessiona nd comes back at the end complaining of an undriveable car. Ok Ill admit it he was right ...more air in the rear tyres till make it more predictable. So I Upped the pressures and adjusted the roll center as this was the first time Ihave seen it on track, and it obviously was rolling in the rear way to much. So we let it cool, missed a session ate well overpriced hot dogs and consumed about 2 litres of liquid and set out again.
This time the handling was amazing, better than ever. What was oversteer in second gear was now flat, predictable, and fast third gear! the old man was right, he cant prepare a car but knows tyre pressures and roll centeres. But it overgheated again. s..t!
Then on my last run into turn two the throttle jammed open, nearly speared me into a wall before I killed the engine and pulled over onto the outfield after a coast through the sweeper. Bugger. Tried restarting but the throttle was still stuck. . I sat for a few minutes, tried it again and all was good. But I decided to park it fo the day incase it happened into the pit straight or last corner where the walls would do damage.
Anyhoo, packed it onto the trailor in 45 degrees and headed home.
a total of maybee 15 laps, but it was worth all the preparation and money, and did show an improvement in handling.

anyway back to the uk in a two weeks to finish the cosworth for more power.

cheers,

Justin P

[Damion Parkin]

Good to hear that you did get some use out of it.. Are you running a watt's link or panhard rod under there ?

When you have cosworth power on tap the tail happyness will reappear.. power delivery isn't as progressive when it comes to turbos

[Roger Miller]

http://www.rsmotorsport.com.au/forums/v ... c.php?t=56

[Roger Miller]

So...........you've finally nailed the plug leeds on and remembered where the fuel tank is...........that's a serious improvement.



Sounds like you had fun.

[jpayne]

It was so hot the plug leads were melted onto the plugs and we did so few laps each cause oft he overheating we used only 3/4 of a tank.
Going to pull the water pump and thermostat off and have a look there as the gunk previously discussed may be restricting flow.

Damion its a panhard at this stage. Also implanning on a high comp 9:1ish turbo motor so the lag will be reduced??

cheers,

JP

[Damion Parkin]

If you are only planning on running a .48 T34 style turbo ? lag will not be an issue as long as you have a good tune.

From my experiences with turbo cars you don't have the same sort of throttle control as a natro engine.. the power delivery is not as smooth and whether you are at half throttle or full throttle the power still comes on just as hard.

[jpayne]

The gunk in the radiator filter. anyone identify it. hardish balls covered in slime

[Danny M]

Probably electrolosous sludge so it'll be a mixture of cast iron and aluminium


Danny

[jpayne]

A few more parts that came cheap:

starter motor, looks like an ex toyota item modified to suit



Sump baffle:


309x32mm disks and aluminium hats inside revolution 15x8's:


Flywheel and clutch:


cheers,

JP

[jpayne]

Update

Engine finally has gone to the engine builder ex 25 year Mountune engine builder. Started off with a measure and check. all is good, head needed a thin skim, but has been repaced with a brand new item, just to be sure, and provide future flexibility and life.
The block just needs a hone and new rings and bearings, thrusts etc, will have it painted black. having the existing pistons pocketed as they have no wear and the rotating parts fully balanced after the crank gets a polish.

Im using ARP bolts on the flywheel to crank...do I need to dowel as well. 1 or two dowels?

Aiming for 'stage 3' so low to mid 300's what bearings would anyone suggest. Im yet to find ot what brand the builder is offering.

Having it long studded, again for future flexibility, some may say overkill but I can get it done now a t a reasonable price so why not.

Any advice on T25 underpiston squirters vs standard oil spray bar?
Would a high volume/high pressure pinto pump with modified spray bar be wise or not necessary?

Cheers,

JP