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Without getting dragged into it I will chip in a couple of thoughts.
I saw honing marks like that when I took the head of my BMW 535 at 125,000 miles, I am fairly sure it was run in by then, it certainly wasn't run out as it is still going strong at well over 180,000 miles with nothing more than regular sevicing.
I have always seen evidence of blow by on YB turbo's, especially if running decent boost levels.
And just one question, a personal one from me,
Why the Turbosport (Turdosport) comment??
I was one of the original members of TS who built it into what it is, so I dont like to see it getting knocked
Granted it may not be a mainly techy forum, it does have a lot of good and knowledgeable members,
it also has a huge thriving social scene, that is why it has been so successful,
it is all about having fun with like minded individuals and less about trying to be the font of all knowledge
So don't slate it because people there may not want a lengthy debate on piston ring blowby,
they may just be too busy getting out and having fun
Sorry Mark, it's sometimes difficult to get an answer to anything or even a response if you don't have 1000+ posts irrespective of topic, technical or not (perhaps I ask the wrong way). Same old argument about inner and outer circles and I was a bit cranky then. I typo that I decided to leave!
I have just used a depth gauge on some of the scores/pits on the head face. The gasket has left imbeded rings about 0.2 of a mm deep interestingly only on the exhaust side of the engine? The corrosion around the water galleries is as deep as 0.45mm again mainly found on the front exhasust side galleries. the copper/brass plug is 0.6mm deep.
For gasket sealing the cylinder faces must be perfect, however can some corrosion remain around the galleries once it has been machined. The head measures at 138.5 at one end and 138.6 at the other so must have been skimmed down from its 139.0 original. can another 0.5 mm be removed happily?
rumor has it that the head must have got quite hot around the exhaust on number 1 and 2. The water has boiled extremly and pitted around the galleries and the head has softened enough for the fire ring to in-bed itself into the face. Should clean up fine.
Post man came today bearing gifts.
AP racing 7.25 triple plate sintered clutch, good for 936 Nm and only weighs 3.07kg's. Just need drive plates and a flywheel.
What is peoples recomendations on Flywheel. Im hearing that a lightweight may not be the best way to go on the turbo motor as it looses momentum and takes longer to spool the turbo. A standard steel jobbie with the ring removed from the back may be the right (and cheap thing to do) Your thoughts.
Also in the post were this lump of goodies.
Last edited by jpayne on Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2WD, not seen one myself, but as you suggest oil squirter outlet out the cover plate.
4WD to YBT, more efficient and less prone to cavitation as it draws and discharges oil from both faces of the rotor. Oil squirter outlet is adjacent the pickup pipe port. Pickup pipe bolt holes positioned slightly different.
YBP, pretty much a pinto pump from what I've seen. Oil squirters don't connect to the pump at all. Pickup bolts holes could be slightly different but I've never looked close enough to tell.
Have collected a few new parts recently and rebuilt some of the older ones
Here is the T34+ turbo large 70mm 0.63 trim turbine and 75mm inlet
New bearings, 360degree thrust, and turbine shaft (on the way) etc. All GArrett stuf except for the compressor housing which has some really odd bolt hole threads?
And a collection of ARP fastners to Augment the Flywheel bolts. Including Head studs, main bearing cap studs, and big end bolts.
also a newly finished rockercover
After finally stripping the head for machining I discovered near new valves and double valve springs to accompany the 12mm lift cams and solid lifter buckets
I have also collected a 14mm plenum spacer, Group a Coil, 2wd exhaust manifold, a near new ICV and wiring loom needing a few connections sorted alternator, alloy alternator bracket, cosworth starter motor (however they are different I don't know) fuel regulator adaptor, water pump, full gasket set bar head gasket and new shiny bolts for everything
have dissasembled the clutch and checked the condition of the plates which all seem to have a few heat spots but generally is flat and smooth
The head is first to go to the machine shop once I get over the cost of the trip to Italy, another to Prague, a week in Edinburgh for Fringe and Tattoo coming soon and a surprise weekend in Paris for my partners 30th.
Cheers,
JP
Last edited by jpayne on Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Now for the questions.
What Actuator do I want to control the turbo. In essance it is a T34/5 Turbo, green 803 injectors, 3 bar map sensor and 'stage 3' chip, rewritten to suit the above.
I believe a -31 is fine for circa 350HP but would a -34 do and what is the difference.
cheers,
It's very late and I can't remember the settings just now, but the difference is the spring in the actuator, and therefore the pressure it requires to actuate. The info should be easy to find, a -31 is the commonly used actuator for your power level
I used a Forge Motorsport adjustable one, various springs are available to custom tune to your application, I like them
I never bothered with thermostat in my oil system, gewtting it to warm up is not an issue.
I run the standard oil/water heat exchanger, plus a sandwich plate and a 16 row oil cooler.
Although the addition of the oil cooler was only for Australia anyway, and even then just as an added insurance, I never had heat problems in the UK.
A decent (water) cooling system is a must, I use one of the Pace extra thick Sierra Cosworth radiators in mine, and it is set up to shovel air in from the front.
A remote filter would be nice though, just for ease of servicing