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headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - The Rebuild Begins
i have reused the std head bolts many many times i have never heard of any problems one bonus of using studs is to position the headgasket nicely i normaly use a couple of old bolts with the heads cut off as dummy locators
Cool. Given I have a 205 block and EFI head should I be looking for a Sierra manual perhaps rather than Cortina or earlier Pinto engined cars?
What's the go with cleaning oil lines after spinning bearings? New filter obviously but can I just flush the braided lines with something? Oil, acetone, ATF????? The oil cooler is coming out anyway but is that a bin item now?
Tank is a 2 piece Peterson so that is easily taken apart and cleaned out.
Have you got a filter on the return line before the tank? I clean all lines with kerosene but be prepared to buy 10-20lt's of it. Just use a genuine Ford Escort manual as I have escort and Sierra ones and there's no real difference Go to a gun shop and buy yourself a decent rifle barrel cleaning kits as that is the best I've used for cleaning the oil galleries in the block
Cheers. I have the usual spin on type filter in the return line immediately before the tank. I do not currently have the course mesh filter between the pump and engine that you recommended as it proved too hard to plumb in with the short amount of time I had available although will look to add it again incase pump fails.
The magnets are intended to capture the material that is so fine that it can pass through the filter. It's a sound concept in principle, but how effective it is in practice I couldn't say.
Engine is now with Miltons. A brief initial inspection suggests no detonation, the crank still has enough meat left to grind the rod journals and still be within the Hammil suggestion of a max undersize by 0.75mm and the pistons are reuseable.
Hopefully get away with sleeving #4 and minor machining only!!
I have had a call back from Miltons and the news is good and bad;
#4 piston has 'broken down' = bin # 1-3 pistons and bores are good and just need a hone Crank is bent but grinding the mains and rod journals to the next undersize will fix that (the rod journals will still be within the Hammel spec of a max 0.75mm undersize)
They cannot get a single Mahle replacement piston so it will have to be a new set. I have two options;
1. instal liners into the current 205 block and use standard bore forged pistons. This gets me back under 2000cc and allows me to run in the best class 2. use my spare block (if I can get the mains caps from Warren that I bought!!! hehe). This will need to be bored to the first oversize
A couple of questions;
Firstly, for a high revving engine can I rely on Hammils 0.75mm rod journal undersize figure and is there an issue with undersizing the mains?
Secondly, Miltons say there is absolutely no issue with sleeving the block but comments have been made on here that it is not ideal. It sounds fine to me as many race engines are sleeved but then I don't have specific info either way for the Pinto block.
Lastly, it appears that anything other than the standard bore will put this engine over the 2000cc size. Is that really correct? Wouldn't have thought there are many standard bore Pintos on earth anymore. I discussed offset grinding the crank with him but he was saying it causes too many knock on issues. I didn't follow up on that.