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headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - The Rebuild Begins
New question. The dyno bloke just rand and said the sump is leaking from a pinhole in the braze where the scavenge pipe meets the sump. What sort of meterial would be good to plug this? Silicon type sealant or something more like a JB Weld or metal putty?
Also, and of more worry, is that he says the Peterson two piece tank is leaking where the halves join. There is a rubber seal recessed into the bottom part of the tank that I know was no damaged previously. Is there any other reason why the tank might leak there? I thought the clamp was done up tight but maybe I need to lean on the spanner more? Danny, you ever had issues with yours???? Who in Oz sells new seals? If I cannot get one are there any other alternative sealing methods? I have the 2.0 gallon 19.5 x 6 Part #08-0026
The last issue is that the Omex rev limiter is cuaing a missfire lower in teh rev range. Disconnecting it got rid of the problem. Not sure whether to buy a new one, troubleshoot the current one or just bin it altogether for next week's Targa (5 days till scrutineering)?
With the sump you could use an epoxy resin (liquid metal etc) if you can get it clean enough as I would be a little hesitant using a silicone as it can create havoc when you go to weld it up later. I have seen Blutac, yes Blutac packed on to the hole to block (works on fuel tanks too) The tank, yes you can disturb the seal and it pops out of the groove and leaks and no matter how tight you do it up it leaks. Performance Wholesale sell replacement seals which will get you out of the jam but I just go down the seal shop and buy a bag of them for the price of one. With the rev limiter just leave it off as I never ran a limiter on my pintos
OK. Sump plugged. New o-ring in oil tank (was pinched and split).
124 killer wasps at the rear wheel apparently. Means nothing to me really.
This motor has much higher oil pressure than the last one. The engine builder tells me it will be due to the decent clearances and that up to 80psi is good. The last motor witht he same oil pump built up to full pressure more gradually than this motor which hits 75-80psi by a few thousand revs. Again, builder said that isnt an issue. The dyno bloke and builder both agree that I need to ditch the electric oil pressuregauge I have and put a mechanicla VDO in. Comments?
40 psi at idle is good and you should have 80-90 psi by 3-5000. Relief spring should open then and not develop any more pressure. Hoping to be in town for the night stage so may catch up with you then.
Mk 2 Escort Sports Sedan 2L N/A YB Cosworth engine rebuild completed. 100% Mongrel FORD...actually Oz block & crank, Yankee pistons, English head & rods, Ozzie cams & valves!
WTF? why are you using an electric gauge for? Get a VDO or a Stack mechanical gauge The bigger the clearances the less pressure is made but the bigger the clearances the more power that can be made If it's got 124kw it'd be interesting to see mine on there as that's better than what we see
Well done Oz.the evolution needs to continue on all those bloody little things. but an encouraging result and possible result. Too bad there are so few events to practice in. What is your next event