RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

i suspect there's a few of you guys that would have moved your engines back (2lt pinto mk2 escort) for handling reasons, well i'm thinking about moving it back around 10 - 20mm just so i can fit a thermo, how is it done ??, i was looking at just modifying the crossmember where the engine mount bolts to it , by putting another plate on with the slot further back ?? or where the crossmember bolts to the chassis but i wasn't sure if this would play with the steering rack/coloum

any help apprec

joe the easiest way is to
cut & shut a set of engine mounts dont move the xmember back!!!!
set it up so the rocker cover is almost touching the firewall maybe 5mm clearance
also move the eng over a bit for more clearance on the webers
& get it as low as you can with minimal sump clearance
gary pitts car is set up near optimum

cheers, will have to give it a go when the engine goes back in

intercooler is in front of my 3row radiator, std fan won't fit

My engine sits a couple of mm off the firewall with cut and shut engine mount brakets as Steve suggested. I was able to fit a thick thermo fan by moving the radiator forward. I have some pictures but I think they're on my other computer? I'll have a look

Yeh stick the thermo in front of the radiator to restrict airflow ....

At speeds which actually need a fan for cooling, it won't matter if it's in front or behind. If it's one of those bolt-on style thermos, without a shroud that covers the entire radiator, I highly doubt that you would notice the difference if it was in front of or behind the radiator. Ideally, it should be behind the radiator in a shroud which covers the whole radiator. The shroud can have cutouts with rubber flaps so that when at speed the air is free to pass through the shroud and not have to go out through the fan opening.

flx-295_w.jpg (14.71 KiB) Viewed 7030 times

On a road car, fans should only be needed if you're stopped or traveling really slow anyway.

On my last rally car, I made a set of engine mounts by getting an EB Falcon diff locating arm (can't recall if it was upper or lower) and welding the ends to plates to bolt to the engine, then make brackets to bolt to the original x-member. If you're still using the original sandwich style engine mounts, especially with a turbo, then it's only a matter of time until you break them.

cheers for the pics, it would make sense to do it as above,

susprisinly i've never had dramas with the engine mounts for a few years , i always thought i would be the shock of smashing gears in a NA that would do it , i only feed it on when i'm in gear , and a little bit of lag between gears helps i think