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[ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - mk1 escort, pinto engine big ponies, little oil pressure
Hello, I am a new member and have decided to join this forum site due to the common sense that have seen posted in the past?? I am after some sound advise if any one would be kind enough to offer their expertise, as good information is valuable. Basically I have a strong interest in escorts and cortinas from the 70's, but I am a begineer to the motor sport side of things. The past 12 slow months I have being rebuilding my mk1 escort front end. This included a big hp pinto. The engine was built by a person I am lead to believe is a good pinto builder from the 70's/ 80's but now that it has been fitted and I am starting to wonder. Oil prssure is low from what my gauage is telling me (autometer). 20 psi when cold/ down to 8 psi when hot. A little tickle of the go fast peddle doesn't bring it up much. I have now changed the oil from te run in oil (penrite hpr 40) to castrol 10/60 edge sport ( lead to believe this oil is suitable for competition engines both new and old school), with new filter. When i apply me cordless drill and extension adaptor to the oil drive and run at about 2000rpm, the gauage takes a while to reach 15 to 20psi, like about a minute or so. I can feel resistance. Now I have removed the cover and there is good flow from the spray bar to all but 1 of the rockers and there is is flow out of the cam bearings. Engine specs. 2lt 205 block, cossie rods, forged pist. Esslinger crank, rollercam,ss valves, hi pressure oil pump ( burton,supplied), competition bearings etc,etc, wet sump rs alloy type from Burtons with new pick up. Engine was dyno'd and power run in, so it was a bolt in and drive. I don't know the clearances set on the bearings. The oil pressure was 65psi hot when dyno'd at 6500 rpm, this is what i am told.The enginer builder lives in Northern NSW, i am in Newcastle so I never got to see the whole proccess. End result is 225hp/ 171 lb @7000/ 6500, so it's not a big revving engine, so the oil pump isn't spinnig its head off. Sorryabout the novel, just wanted to put all the info out there so any reply's would make sense. I welcome any idea's CheeRS
There are some good people on here and I await there input but to spread your options I suggest also posting on the Turbosports forum as there are guys on there with the same setup as you.
From my experience, you should be able to make full oil pressure with your drill and adapter.I use an electric drill and a flexi-drive I made up and you should get quite a bit of resistance with cold oil as the pressure gets up to 60-70psi. Maybe you could try another pressure gauge just to confirm your readings. Also, it's very simple to put the gasket between your pick up pipe and the oil pump around the wrong way partially blocking the pump but this tends to show up at high revs not low. Not having oil flow at your one of your rockers is a worry. You may have to remove the engine and take off the sump and have a look at your pick-up. That's about all I've got without getting into bearing clearances......
Mk 2 Escort Sports Sedan 2L N/A YB Cosworth engine rebuild completed. 100% Mongrel FORD...actually Oz block & crank, Yankee pistons, English head & rods, Ozzie cams & valves!
G'day, I agree with the drill/ adaptor. Didn't know about gasket as i did not assembly engine. Will be dropping suspension down to remove oil pan. Getting good at pulling apart and reassembling alot of bloody times.
Any thoughts on suitable pumps e.g more flow Since i am pulling apart and want to install only good stuff.
I have seen on a thread somewhere to avoid the Mellings oil pumps from the states. Not sure which pump Burton's have supplied the engine builder as there are a few alternatives available. I've only built one engine so the gasket I chalked up to experience. Luckily it didnt damage the engine. A correctly built engine and a high volume oil pump should give you about 90 psi cold @ 2000rpm(ie at start-up), 60-80 psi hot with 10W50 oil.(Please bear in mind I'm running a Cosworth head so the SOHC might be different)
Mk 2 Escort Sports Sedan 2L N/A YB Cosworth engine rebuild completed. 100% Mongrel FORD...actually Oz block & crank, Yankee pistons, English head & rods, Ozzie cams & valves!
Simon, firstly welcome to the forum. There's plenty of know-it-alls around here so you should be able to get an answer to any question. Whether it's actually useful is another matter, but we have a bit of fun.
Reading through your post I guess my first question is how do you have your oil pressure gauge plumbed in. I'm assuming it's mechanical so where does it feed from?
That dyno figure is very high for a 2L pinto, so again given it's an Esslinger crank - is it stroked? I can't see that an engine that produces 200+ hp would have lived long on the dyno with only 8 psi hot oil pressure (although you're not revving it that hard which also leads me to believe it's stroked). Was the dyno an engine one (if so are you using the same oil feed location for your gauge) or a chassis one (was the engine in your car or another when tested).
If the gauge is all good, next place to look would be the oil pump. The trick with these is to check all the clearances before assembly (Mellings especially) but once they're set correctly you usually don't have any problems. Also ensure your pickup is correctly located in the sump.
Next would be the oil filter. Are you running a cooler? If so how is that plumbed in? Is there a by-pass valve in the lines somewhere like a standard setup?
If you're running a roller cam (Esslinger?) then you don't need as much oil up in the head. Has the flow around there been modified in any way (restrictors). Is oil pressure being bled off somewhere?
After that things like bearing clearances comes to mind.
It's going to be a process of elimination. Good luck with your search and let us know what you find.
in process of removing sump for a futher look. engine was power run/ dyno'd in a dyno room. he had it plumbed to a hydrolic gauge from side access of the block. I have removed all 't' pieces etc and plumped in the exact same spot. there is no oil coller etc, simple set up at this stage. its not stoked due to esslinger not doing them any more, and fardon was a lot of money and time for a custom stroker crank. it's special 205 block (yyb)that was standard, but iam sure there was a bore out. yes it seems like a good result, but time will tell. the head took several days to do and lots of flow benching. basically the head was rated to flow 210 odd ponies, but i sent him some new48's as well as my old45's and you guessed it the 48's are what gave that liitle extra. i thinking its the pump/ pressure relief valve. dry sump would be the go but i will need a strong gear box before long???
Mine has a standard pressure & flow pump on it that looks like a repro of the factory unit. It runs 65psi cold and a little under 60 psi hot after a track session. I use Castrol Edge 25/60 oil. I have the same question as Nev as to where you have your guage plumbed in, mine is in the factory spot where the oil pressure switch was standard.
From my experience i wouldnt use a Mellings pump ever again! I bought a new one and had to remove it after 100km because it snapped the drive pin. After removing it i found the sun gears in the pump had started grinding their way into the pump housing. I know of others having the same problem more than 10 years ago so not much has changed. to make it worse they rejected the warranty saying the wear marks were normal! Morons!
The pump i have now was bought from Yesterford in Melbourne for around $70 and it looks identical to the factory pump with the exception of the casting numbers not being there.
Last point from me, i reckon 10w60 oil is WAY TOO LIGHT for a pinto!