RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

Hello knowledgable ones,
1, 3 & 5 exhaust side head bolts are really rusty as is the thread in the block. I thought I lightly oiled these on assembly but maybe I didn't.......they should be oiled to help with correct staged tensioning, but should I be more liberal with the oil?
Thanks for your help and photo's attached.

wow,

how longs that been sitting around ?

if fresh pull apart id be looking at a leak.


Either way, lightly oil bolts, or fear for splitting block due to hydraulicing.

i've never seen rusty bolts like that even out of an engine that looks as if its never been opened... be interesting to find out what wrong ? has the block been helicoiled at all ?

Finally putting it back together and the memory is sheit so torque wrench setting in NM are

stage 1 - 40NM
stage 2 - 70NM , wait 20mins then
stage 3 - 90NM , run engine for 25mins or not (?), then
final stage - 110NM.

Is this still correct for a Felpro head gasket or any thoughts?

Cheers

Have just found a Fel-Pro Installation Tips sheet in an old box and it states that 'the CORRECT cylinder head bolt torque for this is engine is 80-90 ft. lbs.' which is 108 NM to 122 NM and nothing about running engine for 25 mins. so I'm quessing that I just do the final stage torque to 120 NM cold.

Ive never heard of running an engine before getting to the final torque setting

I always re-check my head bolts after heat cycling an engine a few times...
(but maybe i'm old school)

It's finally all back together and running but out of tune. With the extra head shaving to raise compression the timing is out so as a quick fix for the weekend, the cam is slightly in advance of the crank so should I be setting TDC timing on the dizzy to the crank or the cam.

And I think the problem of my engine miss turned out to be carboned up mixture screws 2 and 4 which were black whereas 1 and 3 were spottless. Didn't do them first time around as I didn't want to change them as I had just recently spent up big on a dyno tune, but found this IDF set-up guide so decided to have a look. Took six months to find but now know where else to look for problems, learning as I go.

Carburetor set-up and lean best idle adjustment ( for Progressive Carburetors )
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/c ... _best_.htm

Carburetor set-up and lean best idle adjustment (IDF Carburetors )
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf.htm

Next problem encounter is after noosa hillclimb there now seems to be a cam leak (usual signs on the bonnet) but the back of the cam is dry yet the front is wet?

My guess is that a cross drilled cam is hollow and can leak around the cam bolt, so I need to apply lock tight or sealant on the tread to stop this?

Cheers Darrren

Something like LOCTITE® Tight® might do the trick. I can't recall what I used on mine, possibly just some of the blue gasket stuff. Give the bolt and thread a good clean with prepsol or thinners first.