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Bruces engine Build !
Posted:
Sun May 21, 2006 8:39 pm
by Roger Miller
Bruce,
Hows it coming along ?
We may be able to help???
http://rsmotorsport.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=247
Posted:
Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:17 pm
by Bruce Phillips
Roger,
I have had the crank and rods cracked tested, all OK. Dropped the block off to be machined on Tuesday, will be using the TRW pistons I showed you when you came over. The crank looks good and is on standard sizes so hope I can get away with a linish. When I get it all back I'll dummy assemble it and see how much I need to take off the pistons. I'm using YB rods so the pistons will sit proud but should have enough meat in them. I picked up a NOS cam tensioner of e-bay just before I went on holiday so one less thing to buy. I'm going to look at another manifold as you suggested, keeping an eye out on e-bay UK. I'll let you know how I get on.
Bruce
Posted:
Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:31 pm
by Bruce Phillips
I'd like to get peoples thoughts on ceramic coatings for piston crowns. I'm in two minds about doing this, there are arguments for and against on the web. Does anyone here have any experience with this.?
I'm also interested in what you guys reckon is the best means of piston pin retention. Some people rave about teflon buttons, some Spiro Locks others wire rings. I'm using TRW forged pistons they came with standard circlip type retainers. I've used the circlip types in the past on a kent motor with no dramas, so was leaning towards using them.
Thanks
Bruce
Posted:
Wed Jun 28, 2006 4:26 pm
by jsa
Posted:
Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:05 pm
by Roger Miller
Posted:
Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:12 pm
by Roger Miller
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 5:52 pm
by Bruce Phillips
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 6:08 pm
by Roger Miller
Knew I was watching this for a reason................
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWA%3AIT
The baldys are tapped uot thru the back from the front with a long rod.
I would put threaded plugs back in though
PS Im not tooo sure u can get idler shaft bearing tooo easily so careful there
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 6:18 pm
by Bruce Phillips
Thanks Roger you are a legend. The kent blocks are tapped, lot better way of doing things but probably cost Ford an extra cent per engine!
I got a new auxilary shaft bearing fitted when they did the machine work, I don't know where they got it from.
Thanks again
Oh, I have ordered a new manifold from Sth Africa I'll take some pics when it arrives.
Bruce
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 6:19 pm
by Roger Miller
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 7:20 pm
by Neville Bertwistle
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 8:38 pm
by Bruce Phillips
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 8:48 pm
by Roger Miller
Bruce,
No water feed ?
It was mainly the size of them. Dan once told me the english? ones are bigger. This alows more opening up when using 48/50s.
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 8:50 pm
by Roger Miller
Their all pretty ordinary at lining up...could be the head.........
Posted:
Sat Jul 01, 2006 11:32 pm
by Bruce Phillips
Yeah no water feed I'll take it from the block
Posted:
Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:52 pm
by Bruce Phillips
Do you guys reckon gapless rings are worth forking out the extra money for? Anyone on here using them? I notice they do a set that will fit the TRW pistons I'm using.
Posted:
Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:33 pm
by Roger Miller
http://www.totalseal.com/html/rings/gapless/index.htm
If you are serious, yeah get them.
They arent that expensive.
Theory is if u have more than 30% leak down bore, u are throwing hp away.
I look at my current engines piston and recon the rings are doing a fine job, note lack of coloring past ring pack
TRW with gapped rings
BUT
Leak down tester is only way to positively know.
I used to have a set of Total Seal rings here................but they have disapered !
..............hey Dan
Posted:
Fri Jul 07, 2006 8:35 am
by Danny M
Ooops sorry about that Roger
Send me an mail with your addrss and I'll get them back to you
Danny
Posted:
Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:48 pm
by Bruce Phillips
Posted:
Thu Jul 27, 2006 7:57 pm
by Bruce Phillips