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[ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4752: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4754: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4755: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) [phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4756: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887) RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Z9 Oil Filter on a pinto
This filter makes the most effective use of its inside space of any filter I have seen to date. The case length is one of the longest as well, which might be a clearance concern for some. It has the longest cartridge as well as the longest filter element out of all the filters. This gives it by far the largest surface area of any filter on this page: 490 sqin. The bypass valve is a spring-loaded steel valve located at the back of the cartridge. The cartridge is held in place using a stiff coil spring.
Unfortunately, these filters are made in Australia and are hard to come by in the US. I received this filter back in 1999 from a fellow enthusiast down under and I really wish I had torn it apart earlier. I'd like to see a 2008 version if anyone can give me a lead on one.
In the UK you can get Valvoline Racing (VR1) 20/50 mineral oil which is popular with pintos there but not available in Australia. Most race spec oils here are semi or full synthetic
If you're on a budget I'd be using the either the Joe Gibb's BR or the equivalent E series oil or if you can get the Valvoline Racing 50 it is also good The ones you mentioned are re refined and don't have the stability or levels of phosphorous and zinc If you can justify it I would be using the Redline 15w50 or the equivalent Motul 300V ester if you can't get the Redline
Nah that's not it as it's not a 60w oil. Yes the Joe Gibbs BR says it's for breaking and too be changed after 400miles but there are quite a few guys racing on it and using for much longer as they also sell the XP4 http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/comp ... tionalhtml Which if you talk to the right person is their mineral competition 15w50 but is in fact BR in a different bottle as the BR is marketed as a run in oil and then go onto their synthetics With the Redline yes it is bloody expensive but they even tell you to double the service (change) intervals and from experience this is true
I'll just add to the discussion something about the whole Zinc thing that worth knowing is that the reason the levels were cut over the years amongst other things where environmental ones. This was because environmental regulatory changes led to legislation that required the reduction. If you look at a bottle of oil you will see a number of oil standard stamps/logos on them that show they comply with a particular standard. If the oil is sold for use on the roads, it must have this stamp. If it has the stamp it doesn't have the levels of Zinc compared to the old days, and.... it's not the same sort of zinc formulation either! My point is, if it's sold as a road going oil (just about everything you'll find in your local auto store), it doesn't matter what is says on the bottle ("full Zinc", "racing" etc)..... it just aint the same thing! As for certain racing oils that do not have to comply with these standards, and are labeled as "not for road use" they are not restricted like the others, and are a different thing.