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I hope that's not the case danny. I'll check next time I'm there, if its screwed that's the way it stays! Simon redline was 8 on the dyno, will ramp up to 9 when it goes back for cams dialing in after run in and testing JP
LHS does look a little strange. Might just be the angle of the photo. From what can be seen the swage lines are OK. Did think perhaps you had a pair of RHS ones but hopefully just optical illusion....
So nothing like a bit of pressure. 90% chance of returning to the UK in September...so car has to be finished, and stored before September 10! seem to recall doing the same last time. fool! so why not spend the previous weekend in Melbourne for 4 days and mothers day at the zoo with my 13 month old and her mother! but I got 4 hours done on Saturday after dads play group...oh @#$% im fucked! Managed to fill this hole as a recess for the seat front corner as its moved across towards the centre a fair bit
and then made these infill parts for left and right
and stripped too much filler from this part...and hey presto it actually does have a crease above the sill which is firstly straight, parallel and secondly sharp...unlike it did before. the Fiber arches over the top of steel meant the filler on this corner was thick and obviously erroneous. Don't worry Danny the body lines actually match up quite well, and I think the mis-shape appearance has to do with the lip needing some more stretching in a few locations...
Also having a custom header tank and swirl pot welded up as I type so another piece of the puzzle sorted. Only a few small parts to make and weld on then paint process. I might farm the rear arch blending out to a professional as I still have to finish the kitchen renovations too!!! Dumbass. JP
Last edited by jpayne on Mon Jul 24, 2017 8:11 am, edited 2 times in total.
car will be staying here for the time being! we will see what the future holds in the ...future. Not really worth anything so might as well leave with me later.
very productive day yesterday. managed to knock many items of the now ever reducing long list managed to find some nice flat radiator rubbers
so could finally fully mount the radiator and slam panel
Ill be riveting the slam panel on so added a second skin to the inner arch top to reinforce it and the bonnet pins. finshed welding and smoothing the arches and stripped the old filler from the rear 1/4 and sill, and hey presto nice creases again!
Closed in the rear bulkhead and made recesses for the turret tops, the original idea to put them in a well wasn't going to work
also tidied a number of older welds and cleaned the gutters of the workshop.
JP
Last edited by jpayne on Mon Jul 24, 2017 8:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
rubbers are generic 'radiator rubbers' off ebay lucky find and fit well. the cutout would be for the Mk2 radiator in Mk1. but there isn't any air flow and probably too small for a engine and turbo oil cooler whats this drain back you mention?
Yes the tank used to live down there. Unless the base of your new rad or ic seals along the base to the support panel, air will be flowing beneath the new rad. A reshape of the inverted box section could change the available flow. Chuck a picture up of that area from down low with the rad and ic in place.
Drainback, gravity on fluid. Filter should have an anti drainback valve but the other side is free to drain down slowly through bearing clearences. Could put a gooseneck in the high mount cooler outlet to reduce the effect. It is really just a matter of time for the pump to refill any drainage.
cooler and radiator sit flush with the base those rubbers are only 5mm thick, I would have to remove most of the box section of the front crossmember to get decent space and airflow through 'custom' holes which would also be behind the splitter...I know roadblocks. raises and interesting question. where should the remote filter be located, high or low compared to the engine outlet? also i've got a traditional shape 19 row cooler so whatever I go for for needs a similar area/cooling capacity
bit more done this weekend. front guard is very secure now and its beginning to look like a car again. other side to do one weeknight this week. started with a hole and a bung
made a tool to hold it square and not burn myself.
tack weld
presto
and had this made up, breather tank for radiator
Only problem somethings wrong with the door! hinge holes line up fine but the rear of the door sits 20mm too low everything must bend when the door is slammed shut and is very difficult to open. somehow something has moved. what techniques are employed to realign doors on escorts with welded on hinges... Oh and the doors fitted fine after the floors were done?
JP
Last edited by jpayne on Mon Jul 24, 2017 8:12 am, edited 1 time in total.