RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

This might be a stupid question (I tend to do that), but on a basic level, what are the pros and cons of various engine swaps into a Mk1 Escort? I have a 74 Mk1 L, which has the original 1.3 litre, which I would like to swap. Having now knowledge of the complexities of various conversions (ie, Pinto, Ztech, Duratech etc) Im just curious as to what is simple (ie, little to no modification involved) and what is trickier, (ie, tunnel mods, mounting mods etc), as well as anything else that springs to mind?

Cheers

Hi mate.
The easiest swap from 1300 would be the 1600 with a few goodies will give a good power increase and wont affect the handling. Probably wont do 200Hp though!
Next easiest would be the Pinto. Predominately bolt in on factory components but its a bit heavier than the 1300/1600. 2L Gearbox will fit in the manual transmission tunnel but the additional weight will affect handling and braking so upgrading to 2L struts is advisable. Fuel and electric mods are necessary ( the injected sierra 2L is a good upgrade) 200UK Hp should be easy enough
Next easiest is probably the Zetec. The 2l gearbox bolts on and all conversion parts are available ex UK. making it a more costly but still bolt in conversion. 200+ Hp on Carbs is possible or easier with fuel injection. As the gearbox fits and when treated carefully should handle the power no tunnel or shell mods are required. I think they look good in the engine bay and compared to the next two are a good budget conversion. Some say they are a bit old and weaker than the Pinto, others have done the conversion.
The next easiest is probably the cosworth N/A engine. Again it can bolt in using the 2L gearbox but this may not be advisable as a good one makes probably 240-260 on carbs maybe a bit better on injection. I think the standard 4 speed gearbox is good for about 160-180 hp. the t9 5 speed a bit more but needs some mods to fit. The T5 cosworth gearbox (different input shaft and bell-housing to the falcodore mustang T5) is a good addition at these power levels but would prefer the Auto tunnel variant of the shell and some modifications to the tunnel.
If you use the cosworth sump the cross member needs trimming as does the firewall lip to clear the engine.
The base engine is expensive to start but looks great to old school escort guys.
Added complexity comes from adding he turbo back. In my opinion the T5 or other strong gearbox is necessary. Bigger radiator and fitting an intercooler is advised plus all the above mentioned trimming etc . a simple bolt on upgrade will see 330 Hp (stage 3) a full on race engine will net V8SC power levels or more
Finally and maybe as complex as the Turbo Yb would be the duratec chocolate motor. Well some say its standard parts are weak and not fit for purpose. Others have well over 300 hp on carbs and or injection from 2.0L, though Im guessing new rods, pistons and maybe even crank are present. A mazda gearbox is necessary as it has a non ford bolt pattern but this opens up to Mx5 6 speeds and I presume Rx7 gearboxes. they come in 2.3 as well and most parts are available ex UK to carry out the conversion or roger Carrol (sp) here in SA does/did a conversion kit.
this is an expensive conversion but seems to net good results.
The cosworth, zetec and duratec engines new fuel delivery systems wiring and engine management is necessary. Anything over 150 Hp might warrant diff and axle upgrade from the venerable escort axle. 2l diff then quaife or similar equipped 2L diff then Hilux, b50 or whatever floats your boat. Id suggest brakes and suspension would like upgrading at 150+hp maybe less
of course you could go V8, V6, I6, Rotary or motorcycle as they have all been done to different levels of success.
Id suggest decide what you want to do and choose the appropriate engine. Insurance, maintenance and registration needs to be considered in the difficulty factor.

Hope this helps

JP

Hi Matthew, As far as keeping it road registered, the easiest upgrade would be 1600 crossflow. Nearly indestructable engine, match it with a type 9 5 speed and a lower diff ratio to improve acceleration a bit. Looks like your starting point isn't too different to what mine was.

Mostly agree with jp.

I'd say yb head on a pinto or 205 short block with 2l escort oil system is less involved than the zetec.

You really need to decide what you want out of it.

Thanks Guys, particularly JP for the great rundown.

Based on that, and this is what I was thinking, but I didn't want to prejudice any opinions with my own poorly advised thoughts before I asked (because I really had no major basis for it!), is that I would most likely go the 2L Pinto option.

I guess what I want out of the car is something that is fun to drive, handles and stops nicely, but not a "race" car as such (somewhere around the 200 HP would be plenty I think). I definitely plan to upgrade the brakes, sounds like 2L struts are a good idea, and also a 2L rear end by the sounds of it?

Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by fuel and electric mods?

For the meantime (if I don't do it all at once, will a 2L pinto and 2L box bolt straight up to the existing drivetrain?

Ozstang, I think I probably want a bit more out of it than the 1600 can deliver? Ill check out your thread (looks like a big one!) and then come back for comment

The easiest way to 200hp is one of the 4valve per cylinder engine options.

Elecrical and fuel devices are opposite side of the engine for pinto vs kent, so some extending / rerouting to be done

bigger engines require more fuel so fuel pumps and maybe fuel lines need upgrading and EFi will require additional work for fuel lines and electrical.

JP

Hi Mate, to get a genuine 200hp N/A from a 2ltr is very expensive and is basically a race engine so it would cease to be good car to cruise in as it would have little power below 4k.

Expect no change from $10k at least with all the add ons.

For that money a Zetec would be the way to go.

A healthy 2ltr with around 160hp would be great and wouldn't be too expensive. Head work, cam & twin carbs and you'd be there.

What is your budget as this may determine which way you head?

Nice car too.

Cheers

Matt

Thanks Matt.

I don't want to aim for unachievable HP, so Ill certainly take your advice on that. A rough budget for me would be probably $10-12K for the motor and running gear if that sounds possible? Id like to upgrade the steering and suspension and brakes to the degree necessary to be suitable for the motor build within this budget if possible. Im no expert with cars, but have been pulling them apart and putting them back together for 20 years to some degree, so Im happy to do a bit myself, but I draw the line at welding/metalwork, its beyond my skill level, so not even going there. Hence, the more I can unbolt, chuck on a shelf in the shed, and replace with primarily bolt on items (oversimplification, I know), Im happy.

Then the body work will cost what it costs, I trust the guy I will use for that, so no issues there.

Oh, and thanks, Im happy with the car, seems pretty sound after a few days of going over it.

Probably a very stupid question (although Mr Garrison does say "theres no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid people!), but what is the motor in a 2L Cortina?

Same as the escort. Just a different sump.

Matt

ok thanks, just trying to get my head around exactly what motor we are talking about... so is the 2L Cortina/escort motor a pinto? Or is this something entirely different? (please forgive my ignorance!)

There were two types of motors found in most of the garden variety Escorts (excluding the sport models).

The Kent engine family found in Escorts came in 1100, 1300 and 1600 cc variants and are pushrod based motors with crossflow heads and were the staple powerplant for many Escorts in the late 60's and 70's. The other is the Pinto which in Escorts was only available as a 2000cc variety. It's called a Pinto because from 1971-1974 there was a car in the US called the Pinto that was powered by this motor. After '74 in the US they changed to a 2300cc variant and still called it a Pinto but the motor is totally different.

A good street Pinto with 160hp is easily achievable when on a budget and will give you more than enough get up and go for a sub 1000kg MK1. If your budget is around that $10k mark for motor and drivetrain then that sort of engine with a 5 speed and LSD will be the ducks nuts.

Yep, what he said.

Matt

Thanks Nev and Matt, kind of what I thought, but I couldn't find anywhere that would confirm it as simply and straightforward as you just put it

I probably never thought I would spend that much, but after the rebuild on my Slant, Ive learnt not to have false expectations of low price!

So now I need to start searching for a suitable motor to build. Are the engine mounts the same, or would I need to get it engineered? Ill also trawl through the forum here to get an idea of gearbox and LSD... then probably more questions

As always, there are lots of options!

Here's one.

Daily Driver:

EFI, A/C, decent but not too hard suspension (std height or 1" lower), Standard Mk2 Escort Brakes all round with vented disks up front.
Quiet exhaust with a bit of note (induction sounds better anyway!)

Weekend Use only:

EFI or Twin Webers, Firmer suspension (1-2" lower), lsd (option) , Standard Mk2 Escort Brakes all round with vented disks up front.

Entry Level Motorsport (non-road registered):

EFI or Twin Webers, Firmer suspension with coil-overs on front, lsd, Standard Mk2 Escort Brakes all round with vented disks up front, pedal box.

Race:

Depends on the class chosen to enter - sky's the limit! Upgrade everything and watch your savings disappear!

Definitely in this category;

Weekend Use only:

EFI or Twin Webers, Firmer suspension (1-2" lower), lsd (option) , Standard Mk2 Escort Brakes all round with vented disks up front.


I think I would prefer Twin Webers, Don't need A/C, just a hassle on an older car I think anyway. Are the Mk2 Escort brakes a simple swap over item?

Swap the whole suspension leg over with Mk2 or capri (if you can find them)struts.
Bigger stub axles and once done you'll not have a problem for a weekend car. Then you know brakes etc. bolt up. Might need to modify Brake hoses to suit metric/imperial differences and maybe tie rod ends for same reason but easily done.

JP

Thanks JP. I'm literally putting together a shopping list as I go, so I can hunt around, work out what's what, what's not, and make sure I'm paying what I should be for what I should get, rather than go in half arsed, and have half a pile of incorrect purchases like I did last time. So I can compile all the bits together and be more or less ready when I start the build.