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RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Electrical Help Please!!!!
Page 1 of 2

Electrical Help Please!!!!

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:20 pm
by Rod Jacome
Gents,

I am almost finished a 4 yr full restoration however i have hit a small brick wall. I need to see a simple wiring diagram that involves the Battery, with the coil and the starter motor as well as the dizzy and maybe the alternator. I have the escort manual but my coloured wires do not match and when i 1st got to it 4 yrs ago it was a mess. Any help would do.

I have a bosch starter motor

The beast is a Mk2 2 Litre 1980 Escort

Regards

Rod

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:29 pm
by Roger Miller
All i have on file.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:29 pm
by Roger Miller
more

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:41 pm
by Rod Jacome
Roger,

How can i ever thank you your there for me every time i stumble :-)

PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:53 pm
by Rod Jacome

PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:16 pm
by Roger Miller
Rod, This from 77 factory manual...car is 80.

Anyone have 77 to 80 manual :?:

PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:18 pm
by Daniel H

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2007 12:06 am
by Daniel H
sorry it took so long but here is that electrical diagram

hope that it helps!

Image

Image

Image

Daniel

PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 6:34 pm
by Rod Jacome
Hello Gents, Its me and my electrical issues again.

The Escort is ready to roll except for this electrical issue. When i connect the battery, the battery light in the dashlights up even when teh key is out. When i turn the key to ignition the light turns off. Exactly the opposite to what should happen. Also I have a Bosch starter motor in my 2.0 L and when all 3 wires are connected up to the solenoid and i kick it over the engine stays kicking over until i pull the earth lead out of the battery. One more thing, if i take one of the small wires out of the solenoid it can start with no issues except the dash light and also once the car is on u cant turn it off with the key. U need to clutch it off. Any help on this please as its been 4 days of hell and no luck.

Rod (2L Mk2 Escort 1980)

PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:01 pm
by Daniel H
had the same thing happen with my 2l check your ignition fuse (thats what was wrong with mine( bought a new starter motor and all))

PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:15 pm
by David
Abit of a thread mine,but ive today just reconnected everything since the strip down 3 years ago and my car (79 RS) now is doing the same thing as "Rod Jacome" car. I have headlights/parkbrake light/interior fan on when key is of as well.

There are 3 sets of cables going down to the + side of the solinoid(should be right) then 3 spade connectors(one on top 2 on the bottom on the solinoid and I have one wire to go on these which one guys?????

I would love a picture of someone elses starter motor/solinoid connected up so I could copy that ,I also have a bridged auto relay from when it had an Auto gearbox in it.Before this was pulled apart every thing was fine so maybe all the wires forgot what they were to do after all those years??????? :) :) :)

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 5:29 pm
by David
turns out evrey thing in the engine bay is/was correct,I fitted the harness plugs to the fuse base the wrong way around!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :oops: :oops:

Any way,Its turning over now and apart from a minor highbeam drama blowing the fuse it all looks good now.
Thanks anyway

PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:01 pm
by Bill Hempstead
Yeah
The main issue here is two spade connects one switches 12 volts the other supplies 12 volts from ignition switch to start the starter motor
Red with light Blue strip wire supplies 12 volts
Red with light Green strip wire switched 12 volts

What you are doing is turning the key to position 3 which supplies 12 volts via the yellow wire to the Red with light blue wire this closes the circuit in the starter motor which supplies 12volts and starts cranking the engine. Engine starts you release the key, ingnition drops back to postion 2 which supplies 12 volts to Red with light green wire.

Your fuse block has two parts switched 12 volts and permanent 12volts.
fuse 1, 2, 3 are permanent voltage and 4,5,6,7 are switched voltage.

The confusing wire which I ripped out is the ballast resistance wire. Sometimes a ceramic resister in older eskys starts out as Red with light green but is red in the loom in 78,79 and 80 eskys which will resist 12volts and cut it down to 7.5volts. Goes from second spade connector on starter motor then splits
to to fuse block
to anti run on valve
to coil.

So you should have three Wires
Switched 12 volts Red with Light Blue strip (from late 79 onwards)
Switched 12 volts Resister Wire Red with light green.(from late 79 onwards)
Permanent 12 Volts from Batttery. Red wire

Big Yellow Wire Permanent 12 Volts
From Battery splits three ways
to Alternator
to Ignition Switch
to Postion 1 Fuse Block

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:23 am
by David

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:44 pm
by David

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:37 pm
by chris pfeiffer

PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:06 pm
by David

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:15 am
by jsa

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:20 pm
by David

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:47 pm
by jsa