RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

Best you give DannyM a call.
Hilux rear ends with floating axles with the CV joints at he ends...
Have not heard a bad report yet....

Hi Guys.

We've also been having a discussion about negative cambered full floaters over at the IPRA Forum.

The photos show the key components of the design I have been using for almost 20 years. Note that the photos are from a couple of different models.

As you can see these use an offset spindle which gives the camber angle from a point that rotates around the coupler gear (Pic. 1) This means there is no housing bending or any adverse load on the axles.
When the diff is being built the spindle is inserted and the pinion angle carefully set. The spindles are then positioned to give the camber and toe setting required.

There is also an 'adjustable' version that uses a flange mount for the hub spindle.

There are many of these Coupler Gear Negative Cambered Full floaters out there. I did one on an English axle with aluminium hubs a few years ago for the Stillwell Escort when it was being prepared for Muscle Car Masters.

Coupler gear drive flange MSF Racing components 03 93543050.JPG (13.23 KiB) Viewed 30711 times

300 Series Cambered 3.5 spindle MSF Racing Components.JPG (28.89 KiB) Viewed 30711 times

500 camber assy 1 side B.jpg (122.69 KiB) Viewed 30711 times

Eurospeeds is a lot simpler than that one

Do you have a photo of the Eurospeed unit?

There are a couple of other arrangements out there that are not proper Full floaters and use a unit bearing rather than wide spaced tapered rollers.
They also rely on bolting to the old bearing retaining flange for the mount, rather than being properly inserted and welded into the axle tube so strength and rigidity is questionable.

Thanks for the info. Who makes the drive flange/gear combo? The only ones I've been able to find sofar are Quarter Master.

I make and carry all the parts pictured here in Melbourne.
I've been supplying the coupler gear drive flanges for 20 years.
Cheers.

This is the Eurospeed setup. Not sure if it helps ya....

Nice machining. Cheers.

Also the Eurospeed ones are bolt on. No bending tubes.

I saw that.

Other 'bolt on' floaters have had the advantage of easy installation using the original bearing flange.

Unfortunately these flanges have a habit of fatiguing at the butt weld and breaking off because they were not designed for an overhanging and bending load; they rely to an extent on the relatively rigid flanged axle bracing against the diff side gear and carrier.

Not good for a piece of equipment meant primarily as a safety item.

I've had a good go at trying to break the flanges off firstly by jumping the car and secondly from a direct hit with a gum tree and had no fatigue at the flange joint or any of the hub or axle assembly and have reused all the floater and shaft components in the new car. The diff housing was another story as it was bent like a banana but the flange joint was still fine!


Danny

Probably a 4wd HiLux housing? They are pretty tough.
My point is one of principle; inserted is a better set up.
I've seen flange mounted Mazdas let go and you wouldn't risk it on an English, a BW or 9".
Cheers

No it was just an RN25 2wd housing but they are basically the same
The other issue I would see is getting the spindle aligned correctly prior to welding wouldn't be fun I would think, but having said that I will be changing my diff for a camber and toe adjustable one and will have to cut the flanges off and refit new ones but they will be straight up unlike yours which have no adjustment.
How much camber are you supplying on your spindles?


Danny

I also do a couple of different adjustables depending on the size of the car.

The scan I've posted is the larger one with a centerlock drive flange and on car adjustable toe over a small range. The toe adjustment detail is not shown. These were made for a V8 Supercar application and have a caliper mounting provision integral with D, the spindle. Obviously 4 or 5 stud drive flanges can be used. The camber is changed by swapping part D and the range goes from 1 degree to 3.5.

With the fixed camber set up, alignment is actually very easy, and datums from the installed 'pinion angle'. There is no problem holding toe, the critical setting, to within a mm.
I worry about the production flanges squareness for bolt ons as everything relies entirely on these.

Cheers

OK appears the PDF format will not display. I'll photograph and upload later.

BLACK_PDF058.PDF

(58.72 KiB) Downloaded 1082 times

I assume owner/administrator fixed up the PDF. Thanks.

So I take it this style uses a prepack grease lubrication (like a front hub) and the Eurospeed uses diff oil??

Thanks for the pics, that's exactly the info I was chasing when I started the thread.