RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

Thinking about shelling out for some of this stuff to help keep temps down. Anybody used it? Is it just snake oil? (I remember the polished sales pitch from the Slick50 rep back in the day...)

nobody uses the stuff? That might be all the info I need!!!

I think most competitors on here use the Redline Water Wetter. Seems to work. What's the cost of the Evans stuff?

I had not heard of the Redline product. Will look it up.

Evans is $80 for 3.77L or $320 for 20L so not cheap!

Ouch! Redline is around $30 (concentrate) and usually available at Autobarn.

Is there something wrong with water?

Water on its own can promote corrosion and also doesn't transfer heat as well. Glycol additives are frowned upon for race events as any spillage is very slippery.

The sales spiel with Evans is that the exclusion of water prevents boiling and steam pockets forming inside the head that restrict heat transfer. Have read reports from many users who claim they have had great results with it (lower temperatures) but you never know with stuff written on the interweb.

I am hoping that my slow speed overheating issues will be resolved now that I have wired the fan the correct way around but am always looking for things to help keep her cool.

Sounds like the Redline stuff is no different to a standard Tectaloy concentrate?

My car uses straight water.

We have made the cooling system as effective as possible. Reducing IAT, ensuring the radiator is ducted and making sure the air that hits the front of the car travels through the radiator has meant that most cool days we are taping the radiator to make it run a bit hotter and can run race distances in 45 degree days.

No. It's got an electric water pump so could switch it on off but like the insurance of having it running all the time.

Have read quite a bit of for & against evans.

I like the water / corossion free benefits.

It is unclear what happens with oil temps and head casting temps, so many claims and counter claims.

I'd like to know how many truly competition motors corrode before requiring a rebuild and or normal servicing such as crack testing etc. I appreciate that the corrosion can lead to blockages, again I would have thought regular inspection would identify if this was an issue.

I doubt serious comp only motors last long enough to worry about corrosion.

99% of ours don't fall into that category. I think most of our engines stay together longer term.

Keeping my bits with cosworth cast on them corossion free is of interest but not at the risk of high casting and oil temps.

I cannot find my notebook......

What is the approx coolant volume for a Pinto and 3 core radiator???

For what it's worth. Redline water wetter works by reducing the surface tension of the water, in a similar way to a mild detergent. Even though the casting is submerged in water if you can imaging putting a rough surface (like a rock) under water you will see it keeps lots of small bubbles on its surface, this is due to the normal surface tension of the water. The same thing happens inside the engine block, even though most bubbles are worked out, many miniscule bubbles remain between the casting and the water surface which irrespective of cooling system pressure will still boil in a manner known as "nucleate boiling". The science gets deeper and deeper but in short by reducing the surface tension of the water you improve the interface between the water and block and reduce the number of these "pockets", same with the water and the radiator surface. This is what leads to an increase in heat transfer efficiency, and lower temps. it's not by some chemical characteristic of the water itself so to speak.

It does make a difference, is not snake oil and normal radiator concentrates like glycol do not do this.

I have not used any of these waterless coolants (disclaimer) but in scientific theory the only benefit they can offer (in regards to temperature reduction) is more or less the same as what the water wetter does, I aknowledge the other reported benefits but my point is this...

Why not try water wetter first Glenn and see if that solves your problem. If it doesn't, then it's unlikely Evans will do much if any better. Instead you will need to look at ways of improving airflow etc, and you haven't spent hundreds to try and solve a problem that existed elsewhere.

I would say no one really uses the stuff because of the fact that as I suggest, it can't do much better than water wetter and pure water and the cost outweighs the other benefits for most.

Llewellyn

Glenn what sort of 3 core radiator and what have the temps been

I am using an alloy 3 core but cannot recall which UK manufacturer - very much like the usual suspects ie Allymax etc

Temps during competition have been up to 100 degrees in the cold and wet but higher in traffic (that is mainly cos some idiot had the electric fan wired the wrong way around!).

Not really had an overheating issues yet but plan to use the car during the summer months now.

I use this

http://lucasoil.com/products/racing-only/super-coolant


mal