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RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - Rear Wheel Cylinders
Page 1 of 1

Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 8:24 pm
by michaeln
I enquired today about rear wheel cylinders and was told Escort ones are $140ea or i could use an alternate size for $40 a set (Cortina i believe). The difference from what i can work out is the size, a couple of mm difference is this correct and do they function OK? As they are brakes i do not want to get this wrong... any tips/ideas on this.

Cheers, Michael.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 8:32 pm
by mickas
Possibly Gold Coast Brake Resleeving.
Unless Danny has some NOS ones laying around :?:
Thought I saw some on Ebay somewhere...

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:16 pm
by Noono

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:29 pm
by michaeln

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 12:20 am
by Danny M

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 1:30 am
by joe84

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 3:40 pm
by Roger Miller

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 6:27 pm
by Roger Miller

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:14 pm
by Noono

PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:17 pm
by G Dub
I worked all this out a while ago. 2 litre cars had 3/4 cylinders which for some reason were only ever listed as a PBR oem number. These are the ones that cost a bomb!

TC/TD Cortina cylinders are identical which are P10035. You shoudl be able to buy these for under $30

For the record the other alternative numbers are:

P10034 - 13/16 bore (1300 MK2 Escort)
P10036 - 11/16 bore (1600 MK2 Escort)

If you can pick up some P10035 i wouldnt stuff around rebuilding the old ones that will most likely need resleeving anyway.

G

PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:42 pm
by michaeln

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:13 am
by Darren W.
Did a web search a few months back looking for information as mine were leaking and one of the top ones was my own forum. :oops:

Repco had the P10034 ($53.98 a pair) and P10035 ($36.98 a pair) on the self, so fitted the P10035.
After dismantling the old ones found 2 of the 4 pistons were seized, which would explain why my car dived forward under heavy braking at Mt Cotton i.e. bugger all rear braking. So at next round of Mt Cotton under heavy braking my car felt flatter and more stable.
The only down side was that now I had the old initial spongy Escort brake pedal feel back, but under heavy pressure much better brakes.

So thanks to Michael for asking the question & Noono and G Dub for doing all the research. bravo.gif

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 8:03 pm
by G Dub
No worries Darren, thats what we are all here for, to receive or give helpful info. Glad it was useful for you.

Spongy pedal? Make sure there isnt load on the handbrake cables before the shoes are adjusted correctly. It is common for people to adjust the handbrake without adjusting the brakes first which will result in a low and spongy pedal feel. Back off the handbrake, adjust the rear shoes and then if required you can give the handbrake cable a tickle up. I bet this fixes your problem!

G

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:21 pm
by Darren W.

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:09 pm
by David W

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:31 pm
by gen mk 1rs2000
you guys should talk to nev & sean sorenson
these guys are some of the very few to ever get rear drum brakes working
efectivly ?? on an escort mk2

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 9:13 pm
by tremayne92
Just went to replace my wheel cylinders with ones i bought on ebay and they didn't fit, mine only have 1 piston per cylinder and the preload adjuster goes into a hole on the opposite side of the piston, the bit where it hooks onto the handbrake lever on the old ones is also wider.

Image
Image

Don't understand why mine would be different.
I've got a 1300XL 4 door Mk1 1975 model.

Re: Rear Wheel Cylinders

PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 4:45 pm
by gg
Hi fellas ..
just back to the P10033/4/5/6 wheel cylinder question .. the P10035 version doesn't have slotted piston ends .. is that needed to locate the shoe web .. or is it cool to run without? ie .. is the shoe located well enough to be operated by a flat end piston OK?