RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored

So it looks like something's moved over the last 12 months since the doors were last fitted.
Perhaps the welding of the roll cage front feet has distorted the lower? A pillar and door hinges.
Both doors bolt up fine and easily and swing freely. However closing both against the body and its obvious there is a problem. probably 20mm sag to the rear.
the doors will engage with the strike plate with a big push, momentum bending whatever to allow them to close, the alignment then is fine, body creases match and the gaps aren't too bad (bit tight on passenger rear) but opening them is now very, very difficult.
What alignment techniques are available to me before I cut and shut one or both hinges?
I have tried levering the door, and managed to lift the shell off its supports, ive tried a jack and block of wood under the door.
I've currently removed both lower hinge pin bolts and the door closes fine with about 3-5mm displacement to lower hinge.
my last resort action is to cut the lower hinge, align door all around then refix the hinge and pray!

Please help.

Justin

Post Pics of alignment.

Door closed before latching and latched.

John, these are the photos
door closed

door open

Strike end


Hinge end

similar on the other side.

JP

So the front guard to door gap must change as the door latches close and pulls into line at the back ? Pics ?

How's the A pillar to window frame gap when closed and latched ? Pics ?

The 2 parts of the hinge do not look concentric. Could be worn hinge. Are the roll pins new ?
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jpblue1 ... 0.jpg.html

Mine has had the roll pin size increased to cope with the wear. 8mm is a smidge larger than 5/16". I think the body side was increased to allow the pin to expand to the worn door size.

John the front guards have been removed and will be bolted back on. the new bolt holes will be located to suit the in place door.
here is the other side which has had this work done

guard to door gap is pretty even just a little bit big by about 1- 2mm.


this door only has the upper bolt in place at the moment.
I use 8mm bolts in lieu of roll pins, there is still about a slight knock in them so might go to 9mm and open the holes to suit....is this easy enough. But the amount of movement noticed at the latch end as a result is another 1-2mm not the full 20mm.
I've bashed a bit with a hammer and the hinges are moveable...just need advise which way to knock and if cold knocking is advisable.
thanks for your help.

Cheers

Justin

To lift the door evenly, top body hinge must go forward and the bottom back.

To close up the front gap and lift the door, top body hinge forward. Watch the A pillar doesn't get to tight.

Yes a sledge hammer and steel bar as a drift will move them cold.

Might have to try making some of the adjustment on the door side of the hinge as well.

Roll pins have spring tension so the clearences close up. Bolts are easy to fit and remove, but i'm not a fan as a hinge pin. Can't see bigger bolts being any advantage.