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RS Motorsport :: Classic Speed Restored • View topic - De-Rusting metal
Page 1 of 2

De-Rusting metal

PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 9:16 pm
by Roger Miller

PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 9:59 pm
by Bruce Phillips

PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 9:23 am
by Steve Orr

PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 12:44 pm
by Glenn_T

PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:15 pm
by Cossie Phil
I'll let you know how the oxalic acid method goes tomorrow...I have some rusty parts and some painted parts soaking tonight :grin:

PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:17 pm
by PeterM
Oxalic acid does a reasonable job to remove the rust from small components.

However I have found that is much better to remove the paint first with paint stripper, then soak in acetic acid (vineger) for 48 hours then water blast with a water blaster. Absolutely no more rust and parts are essentially new again ready to recoat or replate.

I have detailed this procedure on the classicford.mine forum group.

ta, Peter.

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:40 am
by Cossie Phil
Thanks Peter,

I'll give that a go if they dont come up clean enough :grin:

PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:29 pm
by Roger Miller
Howdy,

Spotted these 2 at Bunnings.






PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:41 pm
by Cossie Phil
Ive got a tub of vinegar on the go at the moment...the oxalic acid was a slow affair. I'd say the vinegar is working quicker at present but still a slow process. It would be interesting to see how quick the phosphiric acid works in comparison.

Cheers,

Phil.

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:20 am
by Cossie Phil
PeterM's method wins!!

I soaked my painted parts in brake fluid then scraped the majority of paint off. Once this was done I put them in a tub of vinegar for about 3 days...brand new parts!!

Cheers,

Phil.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:03 am
by stuart
thanks for the tips !!

Here is my quick experiment i just put my wheel nuts in to a plastic container and covered with white vinegar coles home brand $1.20 for 2L left them their for 24 hours pulled them out gave the a wash and a rub with a wet cloth then dried them with paper towel. i would not have spent 5 mins all up easy as!!!

i should add that i didn't wash them or degrease them before putting them in the vinegar and probable should have i am sure it would have worked better a little better if i had.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:17 pm
by PeterM

PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:25 pm
by PeterM

PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:41 am
by Roger Miller
Howdy,

Spotted this the other day....................................................

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-t ... a_blaster/






Image

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:53 am
by Roger Miller

PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:55 am
by Roger Miller

PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 1:03 pm
by Neville Bertwistle
Slightly off topic, but what's good for cleaning carbies apart from the old spray can of carbie cleaner. Something you can stick whole bodies in to clean then up?

Any ideas?

PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:13 pm
by PeterM
Hello Neville,

Thorough chemical cleaning of carbies is difficult that's why light media blasting (soda or bead) has good results.

Best to keep away from acid of any type as the carby bodies usually have a high content of magnesium which reacts (sometimes violently) with the acid and permanently damages the casting. (but is good fun to watch if controlled properly).

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:03 pm
by Cossie Phil
Ive just cleaned more parts with vinegar...I'm amazed at how well it works!! So much so I thought it would be worth another post :lol:

PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:31 pm
by PeterM
More progress at this end on the vinegar (acetic acid commercial grade)

I very recently bought from a forum member a volante wheel to make up a set of five for our restoration. Shows the virtues of the acid cleaning process.

As received: